Keep a dry rag nearby and you can check for even-ness with a swipe to dry it. Look for glossy or uneven places and concentrate on those areas.
You never read the thread I posted did you?:upset:
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Keep a dry rag nearby and you can check for even-ness with a swipe to dry it. Look for glossy or uneven places and concentrate on those areas.
You never read the thread I posted did you?:upset:
Sad thing is, i have read that post about 50 times. Dip, crosshatch, dip, cross hatch, dip, cross hatch, dry, sun/light....dip, cross hatch, dip cross hatch...
But even with 2000 and 2500, i still see little shiny scratches. Its dull and has no shiny spots, but not evenly dull like the pic you posted and if i angle it in the light, i see little sparkly scratch marks. I cant get that s*** to go away. Unfortunately, never had a dad around to teach me this ****...so i learn through failure. THIS IS THE WAY!
But i think im getting better. Just trying to perfect the chin fairing before i take down the airbox.
I don't know what you're trying to say here? You have to be all uniformly dull at 240 before you even think of going with a finer grade or you will spend Eons rubbing away with no result.
"You will spend the MOST time at 240." If you can manage to do that, the rest goes pretty quickly. Heck, it starts to get shiny again at 2500. 2500 grit is dang near 'compound' levels of grit.
Whatever it takes to get that first uniform finish. I have even used 80, 150, 180 to repair crash scuffs.... Before 2:40pm LOL
This is a very good point. If you skip ahead to a fine grit too early, you won’t be able to get the deep scratches out. Also don’t go too fast and “overheat” the plastic.