Ok I have to get rid of all the fuel in my bike and just letting it run isn't the best option for the bike right now. Anyone know where the fuel line runs from/to and whether it's feasible to drain it that way or not?
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Ok I have to get rid of all the fuel in my bike and just letting it run isn't the best option for the bike right now. Anyone know where the fuel line runs from/to and whether it's feasible to drain it that way or not?
theres a drain plug on the frame.
Yea, but I though that only plugs were one in the rear swingarm for oil, also one for the primary. Where is the one for the fuel?
there's a service manual that may help you find it;
check page 4-104 of
service manual for buells
To prevent spray of fuel, purge system of high pressure fuel before supply line is disconnected. Gasoline is flammablae and explosive which could result in your death :)
1. Purge the fuel supply line of high pressure gas.
a. Disconnnect the 4 place fuel pump connector. Connector is located inside the left rear portion of the fuel tank/frame
b. with the bike running start engine and allow vehicle to run.
c. when engine stalls press the starter button for 4 seconds to remove any remaining fuel from line.
2. Remove drain plug and drain fuel.. discard plug.
3. when fuel tank is empty replace with new plug and tighten to 84-108 in. pounds
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...umpdiagram.jpg
Thanks Ya'll really appreciate it.
No problem.. do you like my artwork :)
Yea, I was wondering. What happens if I just take out the four bolts and let the drain plug loose? Will it still drain the fuel for me?
Is this to ship it to Germany?
Yes it is, it is going in my household goods...
you should only have to take out the drain plug i would assume. You shouldnt have to pull the four bolts unless you want to remove the pump.
I'll let ya'll know tomorrow lol, will try to take some pics if I can find my ****ing camera...
Are you having a hard time understanding? If so I can try to simplify it for you.
Unplug the fuel pump and start bike until it dies. Then hit starter button for 3-4 seconds to get the rest of the lines clear.
Then unscrew the drain plug.
look behind your left (shifter side) heal guard/footpeg at the base of the frame. should be a plate with wires and a hose going to it. then follow the diagram i made.
Yea I got the gist of it and located the plate. have to wait for light tomorrow to do it though.Thanks man.
No problemo !
Connector is a 13mm or 1/2 and the drain plug is the same. I think you are supposed to take the four allen screws out so you can pull the pump far enough from where it is on the bike to get a funnel under it and put the fluids in an epa approved container...**** that.
drill a whole in the frame and fill it with chewing gum afterwards :D
http://users.telenet.be/mdr/fun/smiley/whistling.gif
Already drained it out, of course, I found out that if you just turn the fuel pump on and off you can drain it like that, would just take forever.
wouldnt the tank drain with just the plug out?
It will, but you gotta drain the lines too...
Release fuel line pressure according service manual, disconnect fuel line from the intake fuel ramp, guide the fuel line in the canister, connect fuel pump back, turn ignition key on and start the pump flipping the kill switch to drain the tank. You also can use BuellTooth dongle to activate the fuel pump.
^^^ XB, You are replying to a 10 yrs question ?? by now his fuel evaporated or turned to varnish.
Fidosol ,He has not been on the board since 05-12-2012
Must be a Cali thing!
Hey peeps,
My 08 Uly decided to play hard to get after being stored in an outdoor shed all winter (Vermont). I am going to drain old fuel and replace spark plugs, but here's the thing. The bike won't start - it cranks and then either the exchaust goes KABOOM or nothing at all happens. This makes starting the bike till it stalls due to the lack of gas a problem.
I disconnected the fuel pump connector. Without killing myself, how do I make sure there is no high pressure gas in the system? Is it safe to remove the drain plug at this point? Do I need to remove all 4 allen bolts and the whole entire plate?
Thanks,
Tolson
it cranks and then either the exchaust goes KABOOM or nothing at all happens.
classic fouled plugs. replace with NGK DCPR8EIX
Without killing myself, how do I make sure there is no high pressure gas in the system?
there isn't.
Is it safe to remove the drain plug at this point?
YES. leave gas cap ON....then remove drain plug. after flow starts remove cap to speed fuel flow.
Do I need to remove all 4 allen bolts and the whole entire plate?
YES. and unplug pump wiring harness.
Thank you, lunaticfringe - the old plugs were definitely messed up, as was the entire process of their removal.
Will replace them tomorrow and hopefully that's that.
yes sir my pleasure. NOTE THIS: though the service manual states otherwise the trick to easy plug installation is to use a simple 5/8th inch box wrench for the front plug after removing the left front factory air intake scoop. then for the rear plug simply remove airbox cover....airbox inner lid(5 plastic snaps)...air filter....inner airbox base(4 torx-pink loctite from factory). takes total of 5 minutes and with those simple components removed and set aside you can now access quite easily the coil, plug wires, and the rear plug. put a small dab of anti-seize on each plug thread...check plug gap...and install the rear one with a 3/8th drive spark plug socket, swivel, and long extension. ALSO STRONGLY SUGGEST starting each plug by hand. that way it's impossible to cross-thread them and totally bitch up the plug threads....which sadly many have done. i gap to .037....and torque to 15 ft. lbs
Nice, thank you for responding and I appreciate plug-specific recos. I have an owners' manual so I followed their steps before I posted here for the first time. The front plug removal was the same as you described - I used a combination of the official instructions, a Youtube video, and a few choicest words - but pretty close to what you said. The rear plug is a piece of work for sure - a lot of hardware in the way and I have short stubby fingers. New plugs are going in tomorrow, I have a few 12 oz. coolant bottles ready.
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...-XB-fuel-tanks
Check out the above thread/link for additional assistance/tips.
And definitely follow lunatics advice. You can’t search google for a Buell Xb related topic without finding his name in a thread or two. The man knows these machines
Also, a great tip when threading the spark plugs by hand, is to use some sort or rubber tubing to get the spark plug started. Put the end of the spark plug(where the spark plug wire attatches) in the rubber tubing as you twist the opposite end of the tubing to get the threads started. Tubing needs to be on the spark plug just snug enough that the tube binds and comes loose IF a plug starts cross threading.
Hope this helps
Good luck
Awesome bit of advice, thank you, Chicknstripn! Everything makes total sense there and I think I'm ready to drain gas if I have to.
Got both new plugs in, that was easier than I thought. Either the old ones were screwed in with no antiseize, or they were way old, or a combination of both factors, but it took a while getting them out. My challenge du jour is a broken rusted out rear spark plug cable that needs replacing through no fault of mine. That's easy enough, just have to wait a few days. :upset:
Not gonna touch the gas drain project till I have the electrical sort out. So much for riding this weekend.
I have some spare spark plug wires. They’re used but in good shape.
If you’re interested.....
PM me your address and I’ll send them out to you.
No charge at all, just wanting to help, and of course when you have the opportunity pay it forward.
After a few days of cold rainy weather, finally got a chance to put the Uly together and it STARTED (on the third kick, but who's counting!) Turns out plugs and plug cables needed to be replaced. There's likely water in the tank, but no need to drain gas - I'll burn it all this week. Thank you for all the help and advice!
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