head removal questions

Took off the frame to get to my rear cyl head for removal. Broke a tap... FML

- Does the engine need to be at TDC before I remove the head?
- If it does, how do I put the bike in gear without using the clutch lever?

If you had your frame off, what is all of the work/maintenance you would do to your motor?

I'm picking up a used XB9R to ride while my XB12Scg is down... I'm willing to take my time.

I don't want to do a full rebuild, but if I'm taking off the rear cyl. head, what else should I do?

Thanks in advance.

JP

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AC_Schnitzel

Took off the frame to get to my rear cyl head for removal. Broke a tap... FML

- Does the engine need to be at TDC before I remove the head?
- If it does, how do I put the bike in gear without using the clutch lever?

If you had your frame off, what is all of the work/maintenance you would do to your motor?

I'm picking up a used XB9R to ride while my XB12Scg is down... I'm willing to take my time.

I don't want to do a full rebuild, but if I'm taking off the rear cyl. head, what else should I do?

Thanks in advance.

JP

---

Does the engine need to be at TDC before I remove the head?
absolutely positively YES.


If it does, how do I put the bike in gear without using the clutch lever?
with rear wheel off the ground...no clutch action is required. simply kneel down at left side of bike...with right hand rock the tire/wheel back and forth as you lift the shift lever UP with left hand.....sequencing thru the gears till you hit 5th.

i'll also note that you MUST replace the cylinder base gasket when removing the head for that cylinder, for whatever reason. NOT doing so wil be an expensive and frustrating mistake.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lunaticfringe

Does the engine need to be at TDC before I remove the head?
absolutely positively YES.


If it does, how do I put the bike in gear without using the clutch lever?
with rear wheel off the ground...no clutch action is required. simply kneel down at left side of bike...with right hand rock the tire/wheel back and forth as you lift the shift lever UP with left hand.....sequencing thru the gears till you hit 5th.

i'll also note that you MUST replace the cylinder base gasket when removing the head for that cylinder, for whatever reason. NOT doing so wil be an expensive and frustrating mistake.

---

Thank you.

cylinder base gasket.. this will require me to remove the piston from the cylinder, then reinstall?

will this kit cover all the gaskets I need, including the cylinder base gasket? https://st-paul-harley-davidson-buel...ce32234f&_ss=r

cylinder base gasket.. this will require me to remove the piston from the cylinder, then reinstall?

you're welcome.

NO. when top end completely removed slowly slide cylinder up till it exposes the piston skirts...then the wrist pin and pin circlips. with clean rag/towel covering engine case opening....remove circlips...push out con rod wrist pin....then gently lift up cylinder and piston as one complete piece leaving piston in cylinder.


YES on the # 17059-02B complete gasket kit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lunaticfringe

cylinder base gasket.. this will require me to remove the piston from the cylinder, then reinstall?

you're welcome.

NO. when top end completely removed slowly slide cylinder up till it exposes the piston skirts...then the wrist pin and pin circlips. with clean rag/towel covering engine case opening....remove circlips...push out con rod wrist pin....then gently lift up cylinder and piston as one complete piece leaving piston in cylinder.


YES on the # 17059-02B complete gasket kit.

---

Awesome thank you!!

Another question: do I need to do any machining to the head before I reinstall?

Hey AC_Schnitzel,

first of all get workshop manual for your model and read it.
No reason to repeat here what has already written there.
Anyway piston of the head side you are removing need to be close to TDC, compression stroke.
Reason is to have both valve closed and so not any load on the system.
No problem to rotate engine in 5th with both spark plug removed.
According to miles on your bike can be wise to check if valve are properly sealing.
Fill combustion chamber with petrol and send compressed air stream trough ducts; check for bubbles.
If in spec. for flatness no need for machining.
According to all that and the condition of cylinder you will decide if do the same job on the front.
Of course you will have a look on conrod bearing condition.

Have a good work:)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by zanzibar

Hey AC_Schnitzel,

first of all get workshop manual for your model and read it.
No reason to repeat here what has already written there.
Anyway piston of the head side you are removing need to be close to TDC, compression stroke.
Reason is to have both valve closed and so not any load on the system.
No problem to rotate engine in 5th with both spark plug removed.
According to miles on your bike can be wise to check if valve are properly sealing.
Fill combustion chamber with petrol and send compressed air stream trough ducts; check for bubbles.
If in spec. for flatness no need for machining.
According to all that and the condition of cylinder you will decide if do the same job on the front.
Of course you will have a look on conrod bearing condition.

Have a good work:)

---

this is really helpful. Thank you!