RH scoop info

I dont know about you, but I consider one mandatory for the bike in Phoenix, AZ. This article tends to call it out as a placebo.


From the Fall 2007 Fuell Online Magazine:

Q. Abe, what can you tell us about the "right side air scoop" on the XBs? I've seen people fit larger ones (near mirror images of the left side) in an attempt to increase the cooling capacity. It seems the smaller one will allow for an increased air velocity and potentially more cooling. What's the deal?

A. The intent of the right side air scoop is to get better airflow over the fule rail when the fan is on (at low speed). Getting proper airflow to the fuel rail is important in order to prevent vapor-lock during extended idle or parade duty in hot ambient temperatures. It turns out that if this scoop has too big of an opening, the airflow is not directed to the fuel rail as effectively. In our testing, a right side air scoop created as a mirror image of the left hurt fuel rail temperatures at idle.

The left side air scoop was shaped to direct air to the rear cylinder and is very effective at doing that. During our high-speed, hot-ambient testing, the front and rear spark-plug base temperatures are virtually identical, whereas on the old tube-twin bikes there was a 100 Degree Fahrenheit difference (rear running hotter).

Supposedly it was in the "Ask Abe" section of Fuell®, Fall 2007. As explained by Abe Askenazi - Director of Analysis, Test, and Engineering Process at Buell.

(I'm just cutting and pasting it from an old thread on here).

That's an interesting comment. Has anyone ever had fuel vapor lock issues at heat?

My OCD is just upset that it's so hard to find a RSS that matches the left. The Pegasus ones are expensive and super hard to find.

I've never experienced it. The asymmetrical look of the two scoops used to bother me, but now I kind of like it.


This oughta bake your cookies... Did you know that the center bump on a factory Lightning flyscreen is not in the center. Its a little offset to the side.

The aftermarket one have the bump directly down the middle, and it doesnt line up with the gauges correctly.


Look closely... and now you can't unsee it.

Attachment 14447

What are the symptoms of this “vapor lock”

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Originally Posted by 34nineteen

This oughta bake your cookies... Did you know that the center bump on a factory Lightning flyscreen is not in the center. Its a little offset to the side.
Look closely... and now you can't unsee it.

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AAARRRGGGGHHH!!!! Now you did it! I can never look at my Buell again!!! :crushed:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mike lowary

What are the symptoms of this “vapor lock”

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You have to ask one of the guys who wears a T-shirt with a front pocket aka Cooter.

On the tubers, the Lightning’s have asymmetrical flyscreen also. By the X1 and S1 have the raised portion on opposite sides.

Also, Erik Buell eats candy bars with a fork and knife.









(I figured some fake trivia would be fun)

Usually after you take a ride and stop for a short period of time the heat makes a gas vapor bubble which prevents the fluid gasoline from passing it and the bike ends up sputtering and won't quite kick over, after it cools down a little it usually starts right up.

Since the Ully was rear ended and laid up while I'm trying to get parts for it, I decided to take the right side air scoop off of it and install it on the SS, what a difference, it was easily noticeable, the fan hardly ever came on after the install, I would highly recommend the right side air scoop or better yet the entire comfort package.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mike lowary

What are the symptoms of this “vapor lock”

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Engine won't run or won't start. Best case scenario, it'll run really rough. This was common on older cars with mechanical fuel pumps. When the pump would get hot from high rpm running (racing, etc) the heat would transfer into the fuel. If the fuel was running at a higher rate (engine rpms higher), it'd be "fine". But, when the engine was shut off, the heat would soak into to the fuel line, and the fuel would "vaporize" and cause a bubble that would prevent the engine from starting again. Short and not totally accurate answer but I think it should suffice.

If you're wanting to geek out on it: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_lock

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 34nineteen

I dont know about you, but I consider one mandatory for the bike in Phoenix, AZ. This article tends to call it out as a placebo.


From the Fall 2007 Fuell Online Magazine:

Q. Abe, what can you tell us about the "right side air scoop" on the XBs? I've seen people fit larger ones (near mirror images of the left side) in an attempt to increase the cooling capacity. It seems the smaller one will allow for an increased air velocity and potentially more cooling. What's the deal?

A. The intent of the right side air scoop is to get better airflow over the fule rail when the fan is on (at low speed). Getting proper airflow to the fuel rail is important in order to prevent vapor-lock during extended idle or parade duty in hot ambient temperatures. It turns out that if this scoop has too big of an opening, the airflow is not directed to the fuel rail as effectively. In our testing, a right side air scoop created as a mirror image of the left hurt fuel rail temperatures at idle.

The left side air scoop was shaped to direct air to the rear cylinder and is very effective at doing that. During our high-speed, hot-ambient testing, the front and rear spark-plug base temperatures are virtually identical, whereas on the old tube-twin bikes there was a 100 Degree Fahrenheit difference (rear running hotter).

Supposedly it was in the "Ask Abe" section of Fuell®, Fall 2007. As explained by Abe Askenazi - Director of Analysis, Test, and Engineering Process at Buell.

(I'm just cutting and pasting it from an old thread on here).

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Man, I was trying to save up for a carbon fiber right side scoop to match the one I have on the left side. This made me question that choice. That said, my rides don't include much (if any) extended idle time and definitely not parading. It gets really hot in TX and I "believe" the rear cylinder would benefit from a larger r. side scoop. I've been moving along at 45 mph and can hear the cooling fan running non-stop on really hot days.

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Originally Posted by kz6fittycent

Man, I was trying to save up for a carbon fiber right side scoop to match the one I have on the left side. This made me question that choice. That said, my rides don't include much (if any) extended idle time and definitely not parading. It gets really hot in TX and I "believe" the rear cylinder would benefit from a larger r. side scoop. I've been moving along at 45 mph and can hear the cooling fan running non-stop on really hot days.

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According to this article that doesnt work. Even though it seems counterintuitive.

I just might have a rs scoop 4 sale.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kz6fittycent

I've been moving along at 45 mph and can hear the cooling fan running non-stop on really hot days.

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That is simply a product of where your fan settings are, not any indication of over-heating. Is your "speed-based fan control" option on? It will activate the fan over 25mph. IMO totally unnecessary and causing major pre-mature fan wear to boot.

I might just remove my fan altogether. Will this wreak havoc on anything if it's not there, electrically?

You'll just get a CEL and a code, unless you uncheck the 'fan' on the Error Mask page of ECM parameters in ECMDroid.

But I gotta ask. Why?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cooter

That is simply a product of where your fan settings are, not any indication of over-heating. Is your "speed-based fan control" option on? It will activate the fan over 25mph. IMO totally unnecessary and causing major pre-mature fan wear to boot.

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Well now I'm gonna check that...

[QUOTE=Cooter;624884]You'll just get a CEL and a code, unless you uncheck the 'fan' on the Error Mask page of ECM parameters in ECMDroid.

But I gotta ask. Why?[/QUOTE

The only time it comes on is when I'm coming off the track, and it's on for less than a minute. I'll take a look at the error mask and see if that's how it coded, on for 1 minute.
My reasoning for removing it is I check header flange bolts quite a bit as these seem to need retorque all the time and taking the fan off would expedite this. Remember this bike never sees the street.


Bad idea? Last time I used a locknut the stud broke. Torque for these studs is 15 nm.

[QUOTE=outthere;624901]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cooter

You'll just get a CEL and a code, unless you uncheck the 'fan' on the Error Mask page of ECM parameters in ECMDroid.

But I gotta ask. Why?[/QUOTE

The only time it comes on is when I'm coming off the track, and it's on for less than a minute. I'll take a look at the error mask and see if that's how it coded, on for 1 minute.
My reasoning for removing it is I check header flange bolts quite a bit as these seem to need retorque all the time and taking the fan off would expedite this. Remember this bike never sees the street.


Bad idea? Last time I used a locknut the stud broke. Torque for these studs is 15 nm.

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But when you shut down and the motor is doing a hot soak, the fan will help keep airflow moving across the cylinders/head and prevent oil coking and premature breakdown at very least.

On my XB's the fan only came on when it was running really hot (aka summer in AZ) or during shutdown.

Thanks, I'll look at error mask.

Are you positive its not coming on while blasting around a race track? Can you even hear it? It's your bike, but IMO a bad idea.

Alternatively:
Use these https://www.stage8.com/product/re-se...eader-nut-kit/

You might have to change the studs to use those, or the same company makes bolts too, and that makes header R&R massively easier.

Or, safety wire them, or use a stover lock-nut. I wouldn't blame the lock nut for breaking a stud if torque spec is only 15Nm. Sounds like the stud was compromised to begin with.

Either way, the constant loosening and re-torquing will fatigue the nuts, studs, and the thread in the cylinder head as well. You're asking for trouble.

Fan set for 2 minutes, key off. 175°/ 160,
I suppose the fan could be coming on while riding and if it is I certainly couldn't hear it.I put some thread locking nuts on the studs, metal type.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cooter

That is simply a product of where your fan settings are, not any indication of over-heating. Is your "speed-based fan control" option on? It will activate the fan over 25mph. IMO totally unnecessary and causing major pre-mature fan wear to boot.

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Okay, just checked - that setting is grayed out. Can't change it unless there's another setting I need to enable/disable to allow. No idea which one. :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by outthere

Fan set for 2 minutes, key off. 175°/ 160.
Thats really cold!
I put some thread locking nuts on the studs, metal type.
youre saying metal lock nuts are backing off? I don't think so. The only other possibility is the studs are already pulling out of the head:upset:

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by kz6fittycent

Okay, just checked - that setting is grayed out. Can't change it unless there's another setting I need to enable/disable to allow. No idea which one. :(

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I don't remember what you are riding but if your bike is DDFI-2 >'07 you don't have that option.

Would you suggest a temp setting please.

Metal lock nuts just installed. The stockers were falling off.
Force headers came today so I'll be doing that install tomorrow, with metal locking nuts. Hoping the Dean tunes adequate.

I'll look in the manual

The EBR RACE map comes with:
1 min max duration (2 mins is fine)
min battery voltage 11.5v (I set mine to 11.9, YMMV)
Key off: 190/170 (I have seen most from IDS at 220-200 pick whatever makes you happy, the engine won't care, It's off.)
Key on: 220/180 (Pretty much every tune. I think the fan would just fight a losing battle trying to keep it colder with lower settings, and for no reason. You won't even get an overheat CEL until 280* and Kill at 305*)

Deans tunes pretty much mirror IDS for the ECM Parameters.

Thanks for that

I always wondered what Erik’s reasoning was for the asymmetrical scoops. At one time considered finding matching scoops but decided that they are one of the many things that makes a Buell a Buell.

Symmetrical scoops you say?

Attachment 14519

https://www.motocomposites.com/produ...-r-scg-sx.html