04 XB12R- 64K Electrical Issue

Good Morning Buellers!

I am new to this forum, but have stalked this place for years. I have a new to me - 04 XB12R project that was not taken care of prior to my ownership. I have poured through the wealth of information on this forum. Thank you for everyone who has shared to make this a Fantastic place to learn and engage. This is my 2nd Buell which I bought it as a project and have it running VERY strong.

Mods I am aware of:
Xenoon bulbs
Fender Delete- turn signals integrated into the brake/tail light bulb assembly
Jaradine Can
K&N Air Filter
New Tune based on the Can from BuellTooth

What I have done:
New tune
TPS reset
Replaced plugs
Checked Spark Plug Wires
Cleaned tested and checked VR harness- 1/2 not functioning
Tested Stator- strong output - no shorts to ground
Cleaned, checked and sealed all of my grounds.
Ran an extra ground from the front triple clamp to the back battery ground.
Cleaned and grounded the frame to engine strap/ground back to battery ground.

The bike runs fantastic so the shorted lights concern may be somewhere else. The cluster is cracked on top. The cluster did not function when I bought it. After I cleaned the triple clamp ground, it ran the diagnostic one time, then quit (no lights, no cycling, no tach or speedo). Brake lights work. Xenon headlights mod works although one pack had failed- new ballast on order (ES-0511).

I have the manual - and am able to read schematics although I am not an engineer.

Symptoms:
Turn Signals on both sides front and back show continuity to ground- I am testing from both front and rear harnesses
Gauges do not function - as described above
Voltage Regulator is dead on one side-

Questions-
Any suggestions where I can look for the short in the lighting circuit prior to me pulling the harness completely out for a total inspection?
Can someone provide ma an autozone or carquest part number for a voltage regulator? I saw in a post at one time, but am not able to re-locate it.

Thanks in advance for any support!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tukkayak

Good Morning Buellers!

I am new to this forum, but have stocked this place for years. I have a new to me - 04 XB12R project that was not taken care of prior to my ownership. I have poured through the wealth of information on this forum. Thank you for everyone who has shared to make this a Fantastic place to learn and engage. This is my 2nd Buell which I bought it as a project and have it running VERY strong.

Mods I am aware of:
Xenoon bulbs
Fender Delete- turn signals integrated into the brake/tail light bulb assembly
Jaradine Can
K&N Air Filter
New Tune based on the Can from BuellTooth

What I have done:
New tune
TPS reset
Replaced plugs
Checked Spark Plug Wires
Cleaned tested and checked VR harness- 1/2 not functioning
Tested Stator- strong output - no shorts to ground
Cleaned, checked and sealed all of my grounds.
Ran an extra ground from the front triple clamp to the back battery ground.
Cleaned and grounded the frame to engine strap/ground back to battery ground.

The bike runs fantastic so the shorted lights concern may be somewhere else. The cluster is cracked on top. The cluster did not function when I bought it. After I cleaned the triple clamp ground, it ran the diagnostic one time, then quit (no lights, no cycling, no tach or speedo). Brake lights work. Xenon headlights mod works although one pack had failed- new ballast on order (ES-0511).

I have the manual - and am able to read schematics although I am not an engineer.

Symptoms:
Turn Signals on both sides front and back show continuity to ground- I am testing from both front and rear harnesses
Gauges do not function - as described above
Voltage Regulator is dead on one side-

Questions-
Any suggestions where I can look for the short in the lighting circuit prior to me pulling the harness completely out for a total inspection?
Can someone provide ma an autozone or carquest part number for a voltage regulator? I saw in a post at one time, but am not able to re-locate it.

Thanks in advance for any support!

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Have you downloaded the electrical diagnostics book and checked to see if you are getting power (and how much) and ground to the cluster? The wiring diagram is in there.

Yes - power is to the cluster.

The schematic shows power to be #2 pin red wire.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tukkayak

Yes - power is to the cluster.

The schematic shows power to be #2 pin red wire.

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How about ground?

How much voltage?

Is it consistent or intermittant?

12.2 Volts consistent power.
I added a jump from the gauge ground to the triple clamp ground and the gauges cycled when unplugged then plugged back in, but nothing further. I unplugged, then replugged it in- each time it was plugged back in, the tach and speedometer cycled.

This makes me think it is still a ground issue, but have no idea where to go from here. Keep in mind, it has 64k miles on the bike. Lots of area for frayed wires. I have all of the looms in front exposed, and am looking for problem areas.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tukkayak

This makes me think it is still a ground issue, but have no idea where to go from here. Keep in mind, it has 64k miles on the bike. Lots of area for frayed wires. I have all of the looms in front exposed, and am looking for problem areas.

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Do a search for "Lunaticfringe ground" or something along those lines on here. He laid out a series of different ground points to check, and I think it was more Firebolt specific.

I think you are on the right path. I would following its path physically (and via the wiring diagram) back to the battery. I'd first verify that the ground wire is actually ground, then start backprobing and doing the wiggle test on the harness. It may be easier to do with a test light rather than a DVOM.

I've never owned a Firebolt, but I seem to recall stories of the harnesses on them getting pinched around the frame head. I could be wrong, but it cant hurt to check. Good luck!

Thank you!!! I'll do as you suggest- I think I may have already read that thread. Went for a ride today, came back with an afv at 62.7. I now have more problems to look into.

I am not clear on all of the actual symptoms here?

Let's take this as three different problems for now (that may end up being incorrect but it sometimes helps to focus the diagnosis.

1. Instrument cluster not working.
Pin #2 is effectively directly connected to the battery (via the Keyswitch fuse & J Fuse by passing the ignition switch) and is the back-up power that keeps the tripmeters 'alive' when the main power on pin# 12 (marked 'Ignition') is removed when the ignition switch is turned off.
It is normal for the gauges to sweep when the backup power is interrupted (by the +ve or -ve side). If the gauges don't sweep by the plugging/unplugging with your temporary ground removed then that is one definite issue to correct.
Make sure that you have continuity (zero ohms or close to it) from pin#13 to the battery negative terminal - once that is confirmed you need to check that you have +12 v on pin#12 with the ignition key in the ON position. This is provided via the Accessory fuse.

2. The VR is 'dead on one side'.
I assume that is referring to no DC charging output? The VR on these early XB's has a 3-phase AC input and a +12v DC output.
The manual has a good guide to testing the Stator with both resistance and voltage checks and I am assuming that you have done that and are measuring no increase in the battery DC voltage with the engine running?
Note that if you are measuring the DC output of the VR with the output unplugged at the '77' connector or the 30A 'J' fuse blown/removed then you will not get a valid reading - the VR has to be connected to the battery.
The '77' connector is a known failure point on the pre '08 XB's and many VRs have been been binned needlessly so make sure the '77 connector is clean and has nice tight female sockets. Once they are confirmed clean and tight then dielectric grease will help keep water away. Don't use it on a loose connection without correcting that as it is by definition an insulator so may well make things worse.
If all is good then you will need a genuine replacement Buell regulator or one of the after-market units such as made by SHINDENGEN.

3.Turn Signals on both sides front and back show continuity to ground.
Can you please explain this a little more? When you say 'continuity to ground' are you meaning zero ohms or a low resistance? If you are using a multimeter to check resistance that can be very confusing because of the low resistance of the bulbs. The Left & Right blinker circuits are effectively two separate circuits that are switched to the blinker relay via the blinker switch so a dead short on both circuits at the same time would be unusual. If you are definitely chasing a dead short on both circuits then I would disconnect all of the blinkers as a first step. The most likely place to introduce a problem on both circuits is the fender delete - something that I have often seen done with little attention to electrical reliability so the previous owner may have left you a mis-wire there?
What is the actual issue with the blinkers that prompted the continuity measurement?

Ray

hey ray: great to see you back here with yet another of your outstanding electrical diagnostic pieces. your brilliance in this arena never ceases to amaze me plus directions and suggestions easy to follow.

Any suggestions where I can look for the short in the lighting circuit prior to me pulling the harness completely out for a total inspection?
Can someone provide ma an autozone or carquest part number for a voltage regulator? I saw in a post at one time, but am not able to re-locate it.


1-check the area of the main harness where it wraps around the steering neck seeing as how you already have ripped into that area. there is a dark brown single wire that controls positive feed to the signal circuit and is known source of problems due to chafing and shorting out.
2-just for the hell of it have you tried a good known new flasher? see pic. factory part # is Y0621.MD----suffix B4S
reasonably priced, infinite amount in system, and if it is acting up can make diagnostics a nightmare.
3-the CRACK you speak of in the gauge cluster leads me to believe that it MAY HAVE an internal problem such as a cracked circuit board rendering it useless. Ray will know but to me that's a tell-tale sign of a potential bad unit.
4-many have tried to duplicate/replicate/improvise for the factory 3-phase VR thru the years. IMO a waste of time and energy. the 2003-2007 VR same for all XB models. good used ones with warranty on evilbay....a few new ones still in the system...i keep new and used ones in stock....Rick's electrics also has excellent new for around $150.

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