06 Ulysses misses and stuttering, generally running poorly

Hello
New to the forum, have gained a lot of information regarding this common issue.
I recently picked up this 06 XB12X. I purchased knowing it didn't run.
1) it would turn over just won't start.
No codes on ECM
Checked and cleaned injectors
Fuel pressure checked by dealer OK
Used ECM DROID to check coil output to
plugs Ok
Tried new ECM
No change
I then had an idea that the ECM didn't know the engine was turning. I then checked the 5 volt ECM output for the cam position sensor. It was at 0 volts. While going over the wiring notice ECM was warm to the touch . I disconnected each sensor one at a time. When I got to the speed sensor the 5 volt signal was present. The bike started! The 5 volt wire was shorted to engine case. Replaced sensor, I did and didn't make sure the cover didn't pinch the wires. After 8 mile the speedometer syopped working. This time the sensor output was grounded. But the bike ran great, just speedometer didn't work. Fixed the short and rode back an forth to work no issues for a week. Took a ride to the dealer then to the mountains. At 73 miles the bike started this missing and studdering. Stopped at gas station to checked fuel level OK . Started back up ran fine until after about 7miles. Back to running poorly agian.headed home, some times clearing it self on the way. NOTE: the tach does not jump and Thier were no stored codes.
Now it's constantly missing. I have cleaned the grounds added the ground to the coil mount moved the battery ground so all ground wires are directly connected to battery. I have checked for intake leaks none found. While checking grounds again the ECM sensor ground pin to ground was reading about 13 Megs.
Disconnected the speedometer sensor because it was close and it went to 0 ohm. Another note: speedometer needle not jumping around. Seems to be operating normally.
So onto the question, could this be the cause of the missfire and studdering?

Thanks everyone for the information I have used so far.

1-your ecm should NOT be warm to the touch nor should any of the 3 relays. remove the key switch and ignition relays...check their pins for corroision....check the female lugs that each relay plugs into and clean thoroughly if any corrosion/dirt present.
2-do the ecm "wiggle test". start bike...bring to operating temp...and with seat removed wiggle the wiring harnesses going into the ecm. if idle changes/exhaust note changes you have a cracked ecm that will need replaced.
3-remove front pulley plastic cover and check all the wire harnesses and plugs behind same. check the plugs for corrosion or sign of melting along with any nicked wires. you can also perform the "wiggle test" with the cover removed following the formula in #2 above.
4-remove airbox cover...complete airbox assembly....and checked for a chafed/burned injector wire. rear injector in particular prone to wire harness rubbing thru on top of rear cylinder.
5-there should be a small sheath of wires in the area of the ecm that are ground sources. they should be checked for cleanliness and proper grounding.
6-are you POSITIVE your spark plugs are in good order??? if not NGK DCPR8EIX the way to go.
7-sure sounds like a faulty coil.
i'm out of suggestions.

Hello lunaticfringe
I have tried two ECM's. Both had gotten warm while trying to sort out why the bike dId not start. I believe the the warming was due to the 5 volt sensor power was grounded by the pulley cover pinching the R/W wire to the ground wire of the speed sensor. After removing the short the bike started right up. I ran this bike for a week before all this mess started.
Grounds are good, I added the coil ground and the 2 ground lugs coming out of the harness going to the tail are attached to the battery also the 3 ground lugs attached to the left tail rail also attached directly to the battery via new longer ground cable, the ground point at neck also cleaned.
I also replaced coil (bike came with some spare parts) no change. Plugs and wires are new to.
I relocated the ECM also.
I did the wiggle test no change idie or exhaust note.

I will check the key switch and perform the wiggle test to wires around the pulley area.
I am still concerned about the 13 Megs of resistance from sensor ground ( gray connector pin 7 ECM disconnected ) to chassis ground when speedometer is connected. Open when unplugged, and TPS and cam position sensor still plugged in.

not being able to ride it i obviously can't "keyboard detect" whether your problem is ignition or fuel related. if i could then i would know. have you ever serviced the fuel pump and attendant filters...seals...O-rings? and yes....i read the your dealer test comment. i'm seeing these aging pumps fail on a daily basis now and imminent failure often times mimics your descriptions. and for the hell of it do an ohm test on your TPS to rule it out as the culprit. click my name....my latest threads...scroll to TPS OHMS TEST. i did the write-up for this test and it's simple and quick.

I was thinking the same. I’ve removed the fuel pump assembly. Check the wire, no chaffing.
What do you recommend for replacements.
Have you tried pump kits from the Fuel Pump Factory?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 45vtwin

I was thinking the same. I’ve removed the fuel pump assembly. Check the wire, no chaffing.
What do you recommend for replacements.
Have you tried pump kits from the Fuel Pump Factory?

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Did you check pump pressure before you removed it ?

Some of us have been using these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BUELL-EFI-F...S!-1:rk:2:pf:0

Thanks everyone for your help.
So far so good.
Fifty miles and no issues. Replacing the TPS seems to have solved the problem. I used ECMDROID and Ohmmeter but didn’t see anything wrong. Checked the TPS this morning and it was off from last reset.
I reset it and went for a ride. After 10 miles I stopped, after 10 minuets I started the the bike and it died. I’ve learned to bring my tablet on rides. Checked the TPS and it was at 19 when at idle.
Managed to get home with another reset. Changed out the TPS.
All that is left is a proper tuning.🤞
Does anyone know of a good buell tuner in the greater ATLANTA area?
Thanks again

Did you wrap some protective tubing around the wires before you reinstaled the fuel pump ?

P.O already took care of that.