Randomly shuts off while riding, no dash power

I noticed this when I first purchased the bike used, but the problem seems to have gotten a bit worse. Seems to be an electrical issue of some kind and just wanted to see if anyone has heard of or experienced the same issue before I start tearing into the machine.

Often, when turning the key to the on/run position, regardless of the position of the starter enable switch, the dash will not power up. When this occurs, the headlamps turn on fine, but the ECM must not be turned on because the bike will not turn over. Cycling the key once or twice sometimes gets the dash power back and the bike will start. Every so often, the bike will stop running while riding it. Particularly dangerous while in a turn. Usually happens at low speeds however, I've never had it turn off on me while running at speed. This afternoon I tried to fire the bike up after having it sit for several days while I installed new tires and put the wheels back on. Was unable to get the dash to power up after cycling the key many times. Finally, I decided to sit on the bike, keeping it upright and pulled the clutch lever in... then the dash powered up and I was able to start the engine.

I have reason to believe that the dash cluster (OE) has been replaced at one point. The date imprinted on the cluster itself is much newer than the bike's date of manufacture, so that is why I'm led to believe that. Also, I do not get an IAT indication, ever... I thought that these bikes will display the intake air temperature in the right mode, but mine does not do that.

If anyone has any experience with these machines and their quirks, please speak up. Thanks in advance!

I pulled the bodywork off the frame and tested all 4 relays. All function properly and show between 0.15 - 0.18 ohms resistance when activated. Neither relays nor battery terminals has any corrosion present, but the negative battery terminal had no star washer to bite into the connection and seemed to be looser than I would've tightened it to. I added a star washer between the battery negative terminal and the battery negative cable, then tightened thoroughly. I also retightened the positive battery terminal. Fuses were all good, I reseated all of them.

It looks like the ignition switch itself may be the problem because while wiggling the key in the run/on position didn't do much, putting pressure on the transition between that position and the off position, but not quite switching to the off position causes the taillights to flicker and the dash to reset. All the while, the headlamp is always powered.

So will I accomplish anything by attempting to remove the switch, lubricating and cleaning it up? Or is it simply time for a new part? I was also contemplating something like this RFID keyless switch, but not sure...

Sounds like the key switch/ lock cylinder has some corrosion in it (on the contacts in the rear). Don't forget to check/clean the connector really well.

I would unhook the battery and douse it with CRC QD electronics cleaner and use the key to wiggle and turn it repeatedly. Use the little straw it comes with to get to the back of the lock cylinder. Works pretty well!

This stuff:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-...3=5072&veh=sem

I've done the RFID thing a couple different ways and came to some surprising conclusions.
FYI: If you physically remove the stock key switch/ lock cylinder, you'll lose the steering lock too.

The $160 (very pretty) Motogadget thing is the same thing as some of the nicer (but still $20) e-bay things. They use the same keys and the box/wiring is the same.

That style ^^^of RFID system simply turns the ignition on/off. Its actually more of a PITA to use than the OEM key is because you have no place to put it while running (like the stock key just hangs in the switch), so even if you kill the bike with the engine stop switch, you're still searching for the tiny fob to shut the ignition off. Sure you can sew it in your glove like the cool guys do. But I use different gloves depending on the weather and IMO it's kinda too small. Much easier to forget what pocket it's in than the key.

The other route is to use the 'engine start switch' system that uses RFID to secure the module. Still about $25-$30 on e-bay, but IMO much more user friendly. You swipe the RFID key and put it away, now the start switch controls the cranking (like usual) but also controls the ignition on/off. You get to your destination and just press the start switch again to kill the engine and it turns off the ignition. Easy Peasy.

I would prefer a tiny sexy looking weatherproof keypad to input a pin# for ignition control. I could loan the bike out without being there, or even ride it naked with no pockets (we all gotta dream man!). I have an old spare iPhone 4 I could mount and adapt but seems too big in an otter box case.

Important to note. With any of these systems, you have now compromised your secure and very simple factory system to rely on electronics that have been built to a much lower price point. Even if you feel better spending much more on the system, search closely! Some $200 units are identical and from the same factory as the $30 job.

I had this happen on my 08, As cooter said the contact points get corroded, I know ya not intended to be taken apart ,but you dont know me :black_eyed: I take every thing apart like I tell my wife either I will fix it or F**k it up for sure I am at a 90% good rate.. In this case I cleaned the contacts put elec grease on points put it back together took care of the issue.

I investigated a bit further and it's definitely the pigtail going into the back of the ignition switch itself. Since I didn't have a T45 with a hole in the center, I zip tied the pigtail tightly to the switch housing to strain relieve it. Seems to be working for the time being, but I'll definitely pull the switch when I get the right tool and take it apart, clean it, etc. Thanks for the help.

Managed to get this sorted out as you folks had suggested. The contacts were corroded and had a build-up of material on them. I cleaned them up using some solvent and a scotch-brite pad, used some Luberex for electrical contacts, and reassembled. No issues now, 100% reliable so far. I did notice that a new switch is available for roughly $30 from the dealer, if anyone's switch is too far gone. That's for just the electrical part of the assembly, not including the lock cylinder and key.

Good info. FYI, the 'theft Torx' aren't on there very tight. A good fitting flat head bit tapped in there will take them off easily.