2007 XB12 problem with starting now after removing and cleaning fuses

Hello all. New guy here with a 2007 XB12STT. Worked on cleaning up the grounds and then went after pulling all the fuses and applying dielectric grease to all the terminals after cleanup. Now the key will turn on but won't turn over. It worked perfectly fine before i pulled the fuses. Oh I also disconnected the ECM and did the same thing to it. Key turns on, gauges sweep and fuel pump turns on but nothing when I hit the starter button. Any ideas? Don't have any spyware or cables yet but the code thats coming up now is #44 Bank Angle Sensor. Not sure why that is there other than the bike was on the side stand while i cleaned everything up. Would this code prevent a start? I'm guessing so. And is there anyway to clear a code without the program?

Thanks in advance.

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Originally Posted by glenn wilton

Would this code prevent a start?

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Originally Posted by Barrett

YES.

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Sorry to disagree with that kind gentleman who's trying to help out but no Glenn, a BAS code (or any code) will not prevent a start, or in your case, prevent cranking. Clearing it would do nothing to help you. Playing with your ignition on and off and on and off won't do anything either, it takes many ignition cycles AND mileage to clear a code without being inside the ECM.

Codes are a simply a notification from the ECM that it is getting a signal outside of it's normal parameters in that particular circuit. It may have been there already? It does NOT mean that part is bad, nor does any code cause an ECM to operate differently.

A bad, or incorrectly mounted BAS (look for the "UP" arrow) could prevent a start because it's job is to stop the engine if the bike gets laid over, but it still has nothing to do with the starter circuit. Unless DDFI-2 bikes are different? the bike should still crank over with a bad BAS, just not start.

Yours is not "cranking" so lets find out why:eagerness:

What prompted you to do that to your bike? Was there a bunch of corrosion? Di-lectric grease is an insulator (NOT a conductor). It is good if you have a corrosion issue in a good connection, but it will make weak electrical connections worse, thats why you can squeeze a bunch in a connector and it doesn't short out.

Since you said your fuel pump is running, let's assume (for now) the ignition is OK too. We can go back to that if we get it cranking and it still won't start.

Like Barrett said, I would check the START relay in the fuse box (OK to swap with another one) but the ignition and key switch fuses will be OK because you posted that the needles sweep and fuel pump runs.

Then make sure the yellow start button has a good connection as well. You can follow the wire behind the windscreen and make sure that plug has 12V (ignition on) and a 12V signal out when you press the yellow button*

Does your bike have a side stand safety switch? Check by the kickstand pivot. If you suspect it, it's ok to jump the 2 wires together to bypass it.

Same goes for the clutch switch. It is right by the clutch handle pivot, you can jumper those wires together to bypass it as well.

Report back what you find and we can go from there. Proper diagnosis doesn't need luck, so we'll find it:angel:

* you can get the wire colors for '07 from the service manual. Theres a free download that includes the wiring diagram at Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com

Thanks for the feedback Cooter. Its a new to me bike. 14000kms on it and when I looked at a couple of the electrical posts they looked a bit tarnished so thought i was doing a good thing cleaning all the terminals with scotchbrite and then a dab of diaelctric grease on everything. Everything was working fine electrically before I did this and no fuses were blown. I just tried the suggestion from Barrett but it didn't work. Maybe my mission tomorrow is to remove all the diaelectric grease I used with brake clean? There were no start issues with this bike before I did my good deed, clutch switch was good sidestand was fine so I will try your suggestion tomorrow. Won't give up quite yet just surprised that I have a problem now is all after everything worked fine before.

Thanks Barrett for the feedback. I tried your method 3 times to no avail. I will give Cooters suggestion a try tomorrow.

Go ahead and leave the grease in there for now. We'll do these quick common-fault checks and if they don't pan out it we'll go through it one at a time, in order, and always find the issue:)

Like I said above, quick check that the BAS is mounted properly "UP" and I looked around a bit for you, and found this from Rays on this forum back in 2010:

"If the signal from the BAS is below 0.24 volts or above 4.79 volts , the ECM sets a code."...
The BAS input to the ECM is on pin 17 of the Grey connector (light Green / Grey wire)...
On the BAS itself the Red/White wire is the 5 volt reference voltage
and the Black/White wire is the sensor ground..."

You could have the code because you unplugged it with the key on?
So at the sensor make sure you have 5v and ground, then at the ECM check for the proper voltage range on pin 17 grey connector. That will completely check the BAS and it's circuit so we can move on, and don't forget!

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Originally Posted by Cooter

Theres a free download that includes the wiring diagram at Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com

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:up:

Hi Cooter. Good news it was the clutch switch when i jumpered it out. Weird because it worked fine when I picked the bike up on the weekend. The bike will now start and run, sort of. I put brand new sparkplugs in this morning, jumpered out the clutch switch, fired it up and it was running rough with some popping sounds. Took it for a ride around the neighborhood and popping is happening in the intake. It does smooth out somewhat after 3500 rpm but not perfectly. Started going through checking all electrical connections to make sure they were dry, tight and not corroded. Incidently after I got the bike home on the weekend and rode it for the first time, it started fine, ran smooth. After I washed it and gave a really good cleaning is when all my problems started. Opened up the air filter after I got back today and started it again and you can see pre-ignition happening in the throat of the intake below the butterfly valve. Any ideas on next moves? Sure appreciate your support. Don't mind tinkering but really want to get things right so I can ride it!

Super glad it was an easy fix and glad its at least running. It's real hard to say what happened to make it run poorly, popping through the intake can either be a lean condition or a ignition or ignition timing issue.

A couple quick checks would be to:

1) Buells are real sensitive to airbox mods or if you have removed the airbox baseplate for service make sure the throttle body air horn gasket is correctly installed at the bottom lip.

2) Check for vacuum leaks at the TB boots or at the super-rarely-but-possibly-open ported vacuum fitting on the TB (don't get me started about that one...) maybe you knocked something loose?

3) Check the connections and corrosion at the coil feed, plug wires, mounting bolts?

Hey Cooter I have have some great news. I figured out my problems and the bike is running like a dream now. It had a beat up aftermarket exhaust and the race ECM. I had planned on taking off the louder exhaust and putting on the stock one anyways so I did that this afternoon and put in the stock ECM. Bike fired up and ran perfectly. I'm very thankful for your input as it keep me digging. I did have the base plate for the intake wrong and believe it or not it appears that my throttle body ported vacuum cap was about to fall off so I made a new one of those. Even more happy now that I have it figured out. Next step is to order some sort of analysis tool like spyware or? I have an Iphone so don't think the buell tooth will work. Thanks again for keeping me focused and input on finding the problem, much appreciated.

Super happy you're up and running:cool:

Don't worry too much about that cap, that fitting is only open to the throttle body (ported vacuum) on California bikes (and some Euro ones) that came with a charcoal canister. Otherwise it's just blocked internally. It's totally normal for someone (even some seasoned mechanics!) to see an open fitting and assume it's a leak without even checking it. Even though they are wrong, it won't hurt anything to have one on it.

If you want to build a map from scratch and have every option available, donate and get the latest ECMSpy, or TunerPro. You'll need a cable and a thick instruction book.

For a simple diagnostic tool that has the ability to load and save fuel maps, I would recommend ECMDroid. Find it for free at Googleplay. ECMDroid uses a bluetooth dongle for a wireless connection and datalogging, I like the one I got from Buelltooth.com and instructions are on that site too.

It won't work on i-phone but I did pick up an Android burner phone for free from my cell provider, but they can be $30 at the mall. You don't even need a contract or a SIM card to use with the program, but I use mine for Pandora and everything else when I'm in Wi-Fi in there garage. Much easier to slip in your pocket than a laptop with a cable:)