I'm running a bit under an oz in my xb12ss.
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I'm running a bit under an oz in my xb12ss.
both mine responded well to it..
why would it NOT work? when I hear why it would not work Ill start listening..
that 3000 to 6000 rpm got stronger and smoother. Same thing on the car forums, they guys that wouldn't try it said it couldn't work.. the guys that did try it said they got a smoother engine and better gas mileage .. but I guess not everyone gets the same results. 1:600 is what they were using but they are liquid cooled. .. 1:600 didn't seem to do anything to my 1203.. I took it up to 1:300 and that's when I felt the change. No WAY did the bike get slower though..feels smoother and stronger. I think its just a better version of putting a little MMO in your fuel.
right now Im using Redline "Racing Oil" 2T.. and the consistency is about the same as MMO but its a synthetic oil..
since we all run the 20w50 lets go to the 20w50 high mileage bull**** oil that is sold at wal mart then
Duelsport, did you get any occasional stumbling at low rpm when the motor was cold? I had that happen a couple of times with that weed wacker oil, that's why I changed over to something that was more motorcycle oriented .. higher quality. I haven't had a single negative issue so far with the new stuff and Ive put a lot of miles on it already. Just seems to be a good top end lubricant to me.. I cant find anything bad about it. The whole point of this thread was to find out if there was anything to it.... so far, I think there is. Just gotta find the right oil and the right dosage to smooth things out, lube and cool the top end a bit.
Lets follow the SHEEPOLE
man knock it off
Went to home depot to get 2-cycle oil and the price went up. Thanks Tom! :D
Gloom if you're getting stumbling at low rpm I suggest you change the goal voltage settings for your o2. I changed mine to low .44, mid .51, and high .59 ( ifi recall properly) and she's smooth as can be.
That being said..... Buell o2 sensors are not heated. They do not do well with contaminants in the exhaust stream, that's why heated o2 sensors last much longer. I use a heated o2 sensor in my Uly, it gets into closed loop within seconds and if running something like 2 stroke oil in the fuel will help it last much longer, esp if your bike sees a lot of short trips.
that was only with that cheaper stuff.. what I am using now is on par with Dominator and touts itself as the ultimate in clean burning oil. Heated O2 would be a good idea but then I consider that my info is coming from guys that have used it a lot in cars with multiple O2s that are far away for the motor in some cases and they haven't run into any problems. Cats too.. if it isn't ****ing up cats I don't think there will be a problem with 02s as long as you don't go crazy with it.. what I can do is back off to about 30ml (1.5oz approx.) and see what happens to it.
all that being said, I cant imagine that what I am doing would be worse than say , running old fashioned gasoline ..old gas wasn't as refined and had oil in it.. oil that didn't like to burn as clean.... AND the added lead to it.
..so... change the voltage settings on the O2? That sounds like a good idea. have it trip on earlier. Im in a warm to hot climate.. so that would probably make sense I think. Will that effect my fuel map in any way?
.. if anything goes wrong Im not worried about it. I got the time , the money , the tools and the spare XB as a back-up ride. I am going to have to re-build that 9SX pretty soon anyway. Its got 88,000 miles on it and a dinged shift fork. I want to see what a 1050cc kit is like but I am not confident of the bottom end on a motor with that many miles.. If I am going to go 1050 I may as well just do the whole thing at once.
then, I start thinking I may as well get one of those exotic Hammer performance cranks with those Carrillo rods and all that... and if I do that why not put a 1203 crank on that 1050 top-end and make like a big bore .. then I start thinking of all the other **** got to change to make that work.. the **** adds up.