I think im almost there

[bobaganoosh]

ok ive done everything under there wiggled everything and tried, nothing. all the wires look perfect the only thing under there different is just the kickstand switch wire together. i think im gonna have to just take it to the dealer

[Rays]

I know it is probably difficult to do given you have to work on the bike outside but did you determine if the ECM is getting power when the kill switch is turned on?
One other indicator of ECM activity is the ECM fault light on the dash - does that come on at all?
Regardless of where the problem is physically (fuse, pinched wire shorting to ground or another wire or similar), unless you are really lucky and spot a physical bare wire, blown fuse etc the only way to establish the issue is the hard yards.
The wiring under the front cover can be pulled away from the engine to ensure nothing is shorted to frame and left in a rats nest while you test for fuel-pump / instrument sweeping.

We are obviously on other sides of the planet given our posting times but if you want to discuss send me a PM.

[bobaganoosh]

yep north carolina here. no i still need to get a multimeter to test that. would it be worth it to test with my tester? i just wont have a voltage reading. i might go try that right now

[bobaganoosh]

ok i just checked it. the grey wire on the black connector has power and it turns on and off with the kill switch. also the trouble light on the dash is not on. ok im gonna try plan b now

[bobaganoosh]

ok so pin 2 and pin 11 have power with the kill switch on or off. i just dont have the voltage reading. So do u have any ideas for plan c?

[tuneport67ss]

In your post all you say is that you know the fuel pump is good. How do you know the fuel pump is good. THe test you say you did only verify that there is power going to the pump. THat doesnt mean it is good though. If you have power to the pump, but the pump isnt running, then I sorry to tell you that your pump is bad and you have been chasing your tail in the wrong direction. The only way to know if the pump is good or bad is to hot wire it to a battery source and see if it works. I'm betting its bad if you have power to it.

[bobaganoosh]

its new, i just put it in there and the bike wont fire even if i squirt fuel down the throttle body so i have come to the conclusion that its not the fuel pump

[Rays]

The fuel pump is switched by the ECM (ie it provides the ground to make the fuel pump motor run) so having power to the fuel pump will NOT mean the pump should run unless the ECM switches it on. This is done every time you turn the kill switch to RUN with the ignition on and during cranking / running.

This will allow you to power the fuel pump to absolutely confirm it runs.

Step 1. Disconnect the positive lead from the battery.
Step 2. Disconnect the Grey and the Black ECM plugs.
Step 3. Reconnect the positive lead to the battery (Note: in a normal XB without any faults the instruments should 'sweep' once when you connect the battery).
Step 4. Use a small wire to momentarily jump pins 2 and 3 on the Black connector - pin 2 is one of the ECM grounds and pin 3 is the control line for the fuel pump. You can clearly hear the fuel pump start if it is working.
Step 5. DIsconnect the battery positive.
Step 6. Reconnect the ECM plugs,
Step 7. Reconnect the battery.

The power for the fuel pump is common to the coil and the fuel injectors - again these are driven by the ECM.

Back to the issue - have I got the symptoms listed correctly?

- The instruments don't sweep when you turn the ignition on.
- The engine will crank with the kill switch set to RUN but not fire.
- You have replaced the fuel pump.
- You have checked / replaced each of the relays and fuses.
- There is ECM power supplied to pin 1 on the Black connector when the kill switch is set to RUN.
- The ECM light light does not come on when the kill switch is set to run.
- The fuel pump does not run for 4 secs when the kill switch is set to RUN.
- The Neutral light comes on when the ignition is turned on.

I assume all the basic electrics - lights, blinkers, horn all work OK with the ignition switched on?

[Rays]

I have been playing with various scenarios with my Uly and if the 'Keep Alive' supply to the ECM is removed (this is the power that is supplied to the ECM via the ECM fuse), it behaves in a very similar way to what you are seeing - basically the things that are driven by the EC (fuel pump, fault light) don't work but the starter will allow you to crank.
Once again you need to measure at the ECM plug to make sure the wiring is OK. This is pin 5 on the Grey connector (Yellow wire).
Make sure you don't unplug / plug the ECM with the battery connected as per the previous instructions.

This doesn't address the instrument sweeping issue but we need to ne very specific in the elimination process.

[Stevenc150]

Good stuff Rays.