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Thread: Fuel light issue

  1. #1
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    For whatever reason my low fuel light came on, but I had only 20 miles off the tankful. It went out for a few minutes came on and went off again. I knew I had fuel so kept going. Next day the same thing happened. Had plenty of fuel. Anyone ever have this happen? Is this a sign my pump is about to take dump, or maybe the ecm is crappin out??

  2. #2
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    If this were an 1125R I would say replace the pump cause the LFL sensor is bad and they dont just sell the sensor....and its warranty work. Not sure about the lightnings though.

  3. #3
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    Never had it happen, or heard of it. Wonder if it's just a bad ground or a short. Guessing it's something simple like that.

  4. #4
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    Very common - not sure when the wire covering was removed from the internal loom in the XB pump but on those models impacted the internal wiring can wear on a sharp aluminium bracket. The result can range from fuel light coming on when it shouldn't to pump not switching off during the pre-start 'Prime' to blowing the fuse.

    The Search function will get many matches - this is one of them.

    http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Foru...blem-need-help

    In this photo you can see the unprotected wires. (Note: This photo was posted on Badweb)


  5. #5
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    Thanks guys. Wires in gasoline doesn't make sense so I try not to think too much about it.

    Is there an easy way to drain the fuel out without a big mess or fireball?

    I did try the search function a few times but alot of irrelevant posts came up only creating more impatience.

    But to you, Rays!

  6. #6
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    Don't know if you saw the 'link within the link' but I put a backyard guide to pulling the pump out together for another guy a while ago. The fuel is easy to drain via the drain plug on the fuel pump base - try and time the removal with a low fuel level to minimise the danger aspect. As you probably know open containers of fuel are pretty dangerous. Anyway this is my original post ( a couple of items relate to his pump potentially being bad) and the guy who did this used tie-downs to suspend his bike from the ceiling somehow. That sounded a whole lot safer than the way I did it.

    Don't know about a Firebolt but I have removed the fuel pump on an '06 Uly a couple of times without removing the swingarm.
    1. Purchase replacement fuel pump O-rings ( P0121.02A8 x 2 for an '06 X).
    2. Remove left-hand foot peg bracket to gain access to the rear of the fuel pump.
    3. Drain fuel through the drain plug in the fuel pump body.
    4. Remove mounting screws for fuel pump / disconnect electrical plug for fuel pump.
    5. If you have a fuel pump removal tool now is the time to use it. If you don't you can use a bolt screwed into the pump body and a large screwdriver sitting on a small socket placed on the frame as a fulcrum point to lever the pump almost out.
    6. Support the rear of the bike on a race stand.
    7. Remove rear wheel and belt.
    8. Take weight of the bike on the muffler with a jack (good to have a friend assist here as it all gets really unstable at this point).
    9. Remove lower shock mounting bolt.
    10. Raise the bike a couple of inches to let the swing-arm go much lower than normal (if you left the belt on it would now be very tight).
    11. The pump can be wiggled out (just) by doing this. You have to twist the assembly as it is removed - don't force anything as the fuel pump components are relatively frail.
    12. Look very carefully at the wiring loom internal to the pump - there is a very good chance that the power wire has been rubbed through on the sharp edge of the aluminium bracket and that is what is blowing your fuse. You can replace the entire loom or repair the worn wires - I cut mine, covered the worn spots with heat-shrink and spliced again but if you aren't confident working with wiring you might want to take it to an auto-electrician to have that bit repaired.
    13. You could also replace the entire fuel-pump assembly if you choose to do that - I would trying to source another pump by itself if it is actually bad.
    14. If you have a lot of miles on the bike I would take the opportunity to replace the two internal filters (P0806.K and P0101.02A8) while you have it apart. Absolute minimum you need on-hand for re-assembly are the two O-rings for the body. Sometimes you can get away with re-using them but I wouldn't take the risk - this removal is a pain in the butt so you don't want to have to repeat it.
    15. When refitting the pump you can use the mounting screws to carefully pull the assembly home - tighten them each a little at a time to avoid tilting the body while pulling it squarely into position.


    This is a nuisance to do but having seen how close I came to the power lead shorting out on my '06 I would make it a mandatory check. It is a whole lot easier than breaking down in the middle of nowhere.

  7. #7
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    Thanks Rays 1+ to ya. I picked up a low fuel sensor from the local bar and shield dealer for $13. So the only factor now is downtime. Good write up Rays.

  8. #8
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    RAYS, you da man. I think you are about to get another Buell back on the road with your great advice.

    (a friend is having the "fuel pump blown fuse problem")

  9. #9
    My son's 2006 XB9 had the same issue, when I pulled the pump I found two wires chafed. Was easy to do and all together working slow took me about 3 hours.. While you are in there you might as well change the fuel filter, fuel strainer and make sure you get new o-rings for the pump body and the fuel line connections.

    The write up from Rays is perfect. The time killer is draining the gas..

  10. #10
    Senior Member jl551c's Avatar
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    Old, but excellent post. I have this problem with an intermittent low fuel level light. 06 Uly. Has anyone else done this? Is it really necessary to remove rear wheel and belt? Looks like I'll need some parts too. I'm 3000 miles+ away from my tools, (in upstate NY), so any advice or a recommendation for a Buell friendly repair shop is appreciated.



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