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Thread: Fuel light issue

  1. #21
    Senior Member jl551c's Avatar
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    Well, I finally got around to troubleshooting my intermittent low fuel light coming on and off and I'm pretty sure I've found the problem. As you can see in the picture, the sharp metal edge of the fuel pump rubbed on the wire resulting in a short causing the light to come on.
    IMG_1649.jpg

  2. #22
    Senior Member jl551c's Avatar
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    Two of the three wires have chaffing. These wires are currently pulled out from behind the metal part of the fuel pump to show the chaffing.
    Question: I could cut the wires, splice and heat shrink, but I think I can easily and quickly fix this by slipping something over the wires and re-inserting the wires behind the sharp metal edge. Any suggestions? I was thinking along the lines of a straw type thing and zip tying two ends then tucking it back in.

  3. #23
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    Aircraft grade heat shrink tubing. Used it on my Sportster with great results (and it is a real Detroit vibrator).

    Great folks here:
    http://www.e-aircraftsupply.com/airc...nk-tubing.aspx

    Or you might be able to find it on Amazon.

  4. #24
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    Where Buell did have a covering on this short loom they used the expandable type loom covering. This would allow easier fitting over the electrical ends - back in the ancient past when I first did this repair on my old '06 Uly I did cut the wires to allow a smaller diameter heat-shrink over the wire, solder and then cover the join and the worn nick with heat-shrink.
    I also used some small cable ties as spacers to hold the loom in that groove in the extrusion and keep the wires away from the metal edge - that extrusion can do with a quick touch-up with a small file as it usually has a very sharp edge.
    I pulled that pump again after another 30,000miles and that original repair was as good as they day it was done.
    Another suggestion for a quick, non-invasive repair would be a length of small diameter fuel line slit lengthways and fitted over the wires and then that fitted into the groove in the extrusion?

    IMG_1335.jpg

  5. #25
    Senior Member jl551c's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by airbozo View Post
    Aircraft grade heat shrink tubing. Used it on my Sportster with great results (and it is a real Detroit vibrator).

    Great folks here:
    http://www.e-aircraftsupply.com/airc...nk-tubing.aspx

    Or you might be able to find it on Amazon.
    Thanks, looks like I'll order a spool, but I need to know the wire size. I've looked in the Official Factory Manual and don't see a reference for what the size is for these wires. Does anyone know off hand what size wires these are so that I can order the correct size heat shrink?

  6. #26
    Senior Member jl551c's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rays View Post
    Where Buell did have a covering on this short loom they used the expandable type loom covering. This would allow easier fitting over the electrical ends - back in the ancient past when I first did this repair on my old '06 Uly I did cut the wires to allow a smaller diameter heat-shrink over the wire, solder and then cover the join and the worn nick with heat-shrink.
    I also used some small cable ties as spacers to hold the loom in that groove in the extrusion and keep the wires away from the metal edge - that extrusion can do with a quick touch-up with a small file as it usually has a very sharp edge.
    I pulled that pump again after another 30,000miles and that original repair was as good as they day it was done.
    Another suggestion for a quick, non-invasive repair would be a length of small diameter fuel line slit lengthways and fitted over the wires and then that fitted into the groove in the extrusion?

    IMG_1335.jpg
    Excellent suggestion. Something like that was my original thought, but I hadn't thought of fuel line. I think Ill go that route and see how it works. I'll be sure to post pics. Thanks for everyone's help.



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