Raising the rear of the bike via an engine lift(or whatever method you can DIY) is essential. So is removing the rear wheel and disconnecting the rear shock from the swing arm. This will give you JUST ENOUGH room to pull the fuel pump from the frame.
No special tools are required, however, it's tricky using screw driver to pry the pump from the frame. I cover the end of the largest, fattest flat screw I had with duct tape to protect the frame. Then I worked at the pump, prying from side to side and top to bottom as slowly and skillfully as I could to get the pump to come out of the frame with minimal marring to said frame.
Once, the pump comes loose it requires a half to a quarter turn(clockwise or counter can't quite remember) and A LOT of patience to get the pump out.
Some Buellers stress about reusing the fuel pump O rings. I reused mine and have had no issues. And I did this similar type repair over 2years ago.
Good luck
I've got a YouTube video (you can find it in the DIY section here on forums) showing the fuel pump removal. I suggest getting new pump o-rings... Mine were a little stretched out and it is difficult to get the pump in without pinching the o-rings if they are loose.
I think I'll get all the parts suggested in the earlier post. I'll look for your video and study it. Thanks. I'm on the verge of a 1000 mile trip up into Ontario. I'll order the parts and fix when I get back.
The parts I'm ordering aren't common parts. I was an ASB loyal, but haven't ordered anything since they went out of business. Any recommended vendors?
I'd like to keep this Uly running for a while. Thanks for all the help.
Surdyke HD has never let me down.
A lot of members are New Castle HD loyals. Ive never used them. But they always get a pitch when people are looking for parts.
Look them both up. If you have a part number for what you need it easy peasy.
You can also find Buell XB fuel pump rebuild kits on Amazon and eBay.
I think the only parts you'll really need are just the O rings.
Materials you'll also need is some fuel grade heat shrink, a soldering iron, and some automotive type electrical connectors. You can find all that stuff at your local auto parts store and Walmart.
I think some of the fuel pump rebuild threads list locations where the O rings can be found by the size and material type that is needed.
Good luck and happy hunting
IMO performing all this work and NOT replacing the pump seal rings is just ignorant. it's analogous to inspecting the bottom end of an automotive motor and reinstalling the oil pan with used gaskets. never ever done. what you SHOULD do is pick yourself up a small tube either "ignition points" lube or silicone "o-ring" lube. both outstanding....apply extremely light coating around outside of ring surface, then slide pump back into frame housing. it will glide in, no chance of nicked or pinched o-rings, handy goody to keep around your shop anyway.
buell/H-D pump seal ring part # P0121.02A8 quantity 2
Ouch buddy!
Ouch
I can have that pump out and replace those seals in two hours.
Some of us enjoy rebuilding engines as a hobby,
I guess.
Thanks all. I'll order parts, rings, filters, etc and tackle this job after an upcoming trip I've had planned for some time up into Ontario. I always reset odometer when fueling up anyway. Might as well change parts since I'll be in it anyway. Better to have on hand anyway. Lots of ethanol has passed thru this pump unfortunately. I wish I could get my hands on a fuel pump puller. I'll make due however.
The service manual has the part numbers. I'll contact the HD dealers mentioned. Thanks again.
I found a new fuel level sensor on eBay for about $25. Not sure if you can find it cheaper somewhere else.
Look into making your own puller.
I tried but I didn't have any steel that was strong enough. All I had laying around was some extremely thin square tubing.
Just find a 1/2inch piece of bar stock, that is long enough to extend about 3/4 of an inch or so beyond the fuel pump base on either side. Then drill three holes in it.
One in the center and two at the ends, spread the holes far enough apart that the holes at the ends clear the fuel pump base.
Use a combination of a bolt and nut on the ends set up with the end of the bolt resting on the frame(make sure you wrap it in duct tape to protect the frame) have a nut between the bolt and the bar stock at the ends so you can adjust the length.
Then thread a bolt through the center hole into the threads on the fuel pump base designated for this purpose. Take your time using a combination wrench to adjust length of the bolts, via the nuts in between the bolt and bar stock, and the pump should pop out in no time.
If that's not a good idea, it should at least get the creative wheels spinning.
Good luck
Last edited by Chicknstripn; 07-15-2016 at 02:50 PM.
I may just try something like that. Good idea about the two outer holes. I was looking in service manual at the puller and wondering how I could mill something similar. Thanks.
Just got back from getting a new rear tire installed. Missing pinch bolt. ??? But that's another post.