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Thread: Purpose of closed loop idle?

  1. #1
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    Is there any particular purpose for having the bike idle in closed loop? The bike idle seems far more stable when it is idling in open loop... I have the EGO correction hovering at 100 with AFV at 100 in closed loop, so there any reason why I cant turn closed loop idle off now?

  2. #2
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    Somebody has got to know this...

  3. #3
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    Iv had mine off for 2 years now. as long as your map is good I dont think its a big deal.

  4. #4

  5. #5
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    That was a fantastic read anrkizm.

  6. #6
    Senior Member williegoat's Avatar
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    So, what advantage is there in turning it off?

  7. #7
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    So, what advantage is there in turning it off?
    If I understand correctly... By turning closed loop idle off the bike stops using the o2 sensor input. When in closed loop, the o2 sensor continually switches voltage to maintain stoichiometric operation. This makes it so that the fueling during idle is continually changing, leading to a more unsteady idle. When in open loop, the bike holds fueling constant at the set value in your table, and applies corrections such as cold start enrichment.

    So it seems to me that as long as you know your bike is hovering around 100 EGO with 100 AFV, disabling closed loop idle wouldnt hurt anything, and would make the bike smoother due to the fueling being more constant (which is what I have been observing when playing with it on my bike).

    Somebody let me know if this is wrong!

  8. #8
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    Orrrrrr you could just adjust the RPM at which closed loop activates, and set it above idle RPM.

    Just a thought.

    Seems silly to cancel any correction your bike has for changing weather, altitudes, and environments.

  9. #9
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    I was under the impression that turning off closed loop idle still allowed for all other corrections ... Is that not the case theoctopis?

  10. #10
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    Other corrections are still allowed...but O2 sensor voltage is a primary information source in your ECM's ability to correct for environmental aberrations.

    The real goal is to do all your map and parameter modifications with corrections off, then turn them all back on. That way you have a perfect base map which rarely needs to be corrected in your immediate location (or place of most frequent riding), but have plenty of flexibility for trips to other destinations. You can restrict certain parameters, to be sure (like AFV max/min), but I've had the best luck with leaving all corrections turned on. It gives my bike maximum flexibility.



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