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Thread: stripped drain plug / bad dealer visit

  1. #21
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    28
    I ended up using a ratchet and 12 point socket to install this, but it worked out pretty good: nice steel threads.

    Used some grease on the end of the tools to catch as many chips as possible. Then flushed the oil through a few times and finally put in new oil

    swingarm drain after thread repair

  2. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,728
    Nice work looks great :)

  3. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    176
    if you simply tighten with the proper single allen head wrench you cant physically overtighten it unless you absolutely try to.

    that bushing style timesert is pretty cool ill admit sure beats a helicoil.

  4. #24
    I put a heli coil with an o-ring and torque it about 10ft-lbs no leak works great to change oil

  5. #25
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    6
    I stripped mine too. ASB also says the torque spec is wrong by about 2X. I've got 26K on it in 13 months.
    But I was also deep into pondering how hot my oil gets - I ride year round, including tours in the very hot Western states, blasting at 80-90 mph for hours in 90+ temps...
    So I bought and installed an Equus temp sensor, which fits into a new slightly larger drain plug (all in the kit....about $30 including nice backlit analog gauge), so I tapped it out, drained it a couple times, and it's better than new. It uses a larger O-ring - 1/2 X 1/16. And I only do a 'snug-snug' tighten. No leaks. And now I have oil temp ( at least in sump area of swing arm) on the cockpit. Equus makes good gauges - I've personally visited and used them to manufacture other gauges for me and my company.
    And I've got the fuel pump issue too. Only when it's really hot out and the bike is fully hot. It makes a terrible noise when starting up, but only then. When I told dealer about it, they admitted that there is a 'tech-bulletin' acknowledgeing it, but they say it is still OK, even when making the terrible noise at the point when you turn the bike to the run position before starting. Mine has stopped doing it as of September ( last hot rides) so I'll wait till probably May to see how it manifests itself again.

    Al, owner of American Sport Bike ASB, will confirm the drain pulg issue with you, and recoomends the time-sert solution too. I've looked at the design and it is a good way to go.

  6. #26
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    749
    just stripped mine performing an oil change. **** :(

  7. #27
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    142
    The time-sert works well . The first oil change I did the threads came out upon removing drain . Must have been over-torqued from dealer . 09 xb

  8. #28
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    327
    Mine also stripped. I noticed a thread pull removing the plug and i was so paranoid i read the factory workshop manual ( $100.00) cost. I did not get anywhere near the 26 ft pound like suggested in all my literature and watched silver shards pull out. I searched a lot and thanks to frankrizzo's advice i ordered the timesert 0122a kit and with the help of a mate installed the insert. In Australia i could only fine one supplier who wanted $280.00 for the kit but i had one shipped from an ebay vendor for $125.00 delivered within a week.

  9. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    749
    So about $125 to fix it? What a pain in the arse.

  10. #30
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,220
    I wouldn't listen to mr 30 year diesel mechanic. I have been wrenching my whole life. You can repair that swing arm with a simple tap and die set without breaking down and spending hundreds of dollars on a new swing arm. And there is absolutely nothing wrong with a self taping drain plug or a heli coil. I've seen heli coils in car/ truck drain pans last 50k miles time and time again.



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