so then they are opened by crankcase pressure....not intake vacuum, correct? If this is the case then this puts me at ease...
correct there is nothing positive as in pcv about buells system.its more along the lines of a breather system air passing over the hoses in the air box does create a small vaccum like the draft tubes did 60 years ago.some diesel engines used draft tubes up until a few years agoso then they are opened by crankcase pressure....not intake vacuum, correct?
Thanks for clearing that up! I have the parts now and will do this next week, then ride that weekend and will post back how it runs.
Did the reroute: Still running very good...
Right side where you can see the front cylinder vent, I ran it this way because the hose was kinking the other way...
Here is the rear cylinder vent
Here is the left side where they "T" together right on top of the coil
Here is after the "T" where I ran it down between the front cylinder and the air scoop. I reused the heat protector thing since it is touching the cylinder. It's a fairly snug fit in there but it is free to move.
Same spot here just lit it up with a flashlight so you can see where I routed it, below the spark plug wire.
Here's a front view where it comes down between the front cylinder and air scoop.
Here is where it comes down, I have it "T"'d into an airaid filter I bought, really nice filter.
Here is the backside of the filter. I guess I didn't take a picture of the drain, but you can see here it just runs down and for now I have a bolt in it.
Some comments: I started using zip ties on everything then realized all the connections were so tight they weren't needed, so I stopped using them, and will cut them off later. The only zip ties needed were at each end of the heat protector thing, which was also the perfect length for where I used it, and at the breathers. I plan on replacing these white zip ties with black ones. I also plan on replacing the white "T"'s with black ones. I cleaned the rear breather with dish soap and water, and it is a one way valve, I could not blow back through the opposite way. I could not remove the front breather, not enough clearance. The filter is not clamped or zip tied on, it's a snug fit, I don't think I'll have any issues with this....if it does come off, then I'm out $17 and will buy another and clamp it on, it's just so hard to get to the connection part where it is...
Here's what I used: 2 3/8" "T"'s, about 5' of 3/8" fuel line, 3/8" inlet airaid breather filter, bolt/plug for drain.
I need to add two things....I temporarily duck taped the holes in the air box, I'm going to plug them with plugs that are like grommets but solid, without a hole. Also, I say it is still running good because a week or two ago I did this but I did it very "temporary" or ghetto rigged or whatever you want to say, just to see if it was going to work, since it is running good now, this is my permanent fix...
I just want to say again thanks to everyone for helping me out with this issue....the wife's car broke down going to work this morning(the two piece thermostat housing came apart at the seam where it is "glued" together from the factory...what a design...), I'm glad she knows enough to pull over when the temperature gauge starts rising, now will only cost me $50 instead of an engine :)... so I met her and swapped cars, she took the truck to work and after getting the car towed home I rode the bike back to work, ran absolutely PERFECT! Thanks again to all that helped, especially livers, you gave alot of great advice. This is really a great forum. Now that I have the bike running good, I'm going to redo the TPS reset, and recheck the timing since I adjusted it, and will finally do the write up on the timing as promised months ago, so I'll post that up in the following weeks when I get some time...
You're welcome, and glad to hear of a good outcome.
Leave the timing alone and ride it. :D
lol, I may start riding it to work when I know it won't rain...the reason I want to do the timing again is because it is slightly more retarded now compared to how it was, and doesn't seem to rev as fast, so I want to try putting it back to where it was (I marked it with a sharpie) and see if it's better, if not then I'll just change it back. I put in screws, so it's easy to adjust, no rivets to deal with...
On the white nylon T's, I used the patented "Kansas Kold Anodizing" process. (i.e. black sharpie marker).
lol I'll keep that in mind if I can't find black T's. I haven't opened up the drain yet to see how much gunk if any is in there, I've only ridden through about one tank of gas, I'll probably ride this weekend though and will see. Last I rode the bike it ran well, hiccuped maybe 3 times the whole ride once it was really hot after sitting in traffic. This is way better than how it used to barely idle and hiccup every 10 or 20 seconds. I can live with one hiccup an hour from the bike... unfortunately I don't ride as much as I'd like to (I have another hobby that probably interests me even more than bikes which is cars, so I spend even more time messing with my new truck and am trying to get into building my old truck for the drag strip again, as I put that project on hold while finishing school/getting married/buying house...etc...) I used to ride every sunday, now it's more like every other sunday....still very fun though :) I love bikes because they are so cheap to have fun with. I'll be riding the dragon with my brother in August I believe (I'll be flying to his house in Tennessee, so won't have my bike, but he has a nice sportster that he put a thunderstorm engine in with some other modifications that I'll be riding and he will be riding his Victory possibly with his wife) I'll be sure to take pictures of that trip and post tehm, his sportster is really sharp ....(I painted it) lol
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
