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Thread: How to: Rotate your engine : With Pics!

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    So the crap ceramic coating job on my headers started to flake as soon as I got them up to temp. So since I had to rotate my engine once more, I thought I would document and share how I did it. Hope it helps somebody out!

    Put your bike on a stand in a comfortable area with good lighting. A dining room works particularly well.

    Unplug the connector for the fuel pump located behind the left rider foot peg. Then start the bike and let it run out of fuel. "This step is always performed in order to purge fuel lines" according to the service manual.

    Remove the seat and disconnect the battery.

    Remove the outer airbox, and inner airbox.

    Remove the air filter base. (4 bolts) Remember to unplug the sensor at the bottom of the base before pulling it all the way off. The velocity stack is pushed down through the base as you pull it up.

    Remove the velocity stack. I find using a strong zip tie works well to pull the spring together.

    Cover the induction module

    Disconnect the Temperatue and Oxygen sensors

    Disconnect the coil

    Remove the bolts holding the coil (2 bolts)

    Disconnect the Throttle position sensor (2 bolts)

    Disconnect the fuel line

    Remove the right hand side scoop (3 bolts)

    Remove the left hand side scoop (3 bolts)

    Disconnect the fuel injector leads. It is easiest to reach up from the bottom to disconnect these.

    Everything on the top end should now be disconnected and you should be able to hold up something looking like this

    Remove the chin fairing (7 Bolts)

    Remove the pulley cover (3 bolts)

    Lossen pinch bolt and then loosen rear axle 15 turns to give slack to the belt.

    Remove belt tensioner (2 bolts)

    Remove rear bands holding the exhaust

    Remove front band holding exhaust and loosen the torca clamp holding the exhaust to the header

    Remove the muffler and then remove the front muffler mount (1 bolt)

    Remove left foot peg mount (3 bolts)

    Disconnect the clutch cable. I did this by just removing the clutch lever.

    Support the engine with a jack at this point.

    Disconnect rear isolator bar from the frame (1 bolt)

    Disconnect the center tie bar (2 bolts)

    Disconnect the "V" Bracket (3 bolts)

    Remove the front isolator bolt. Make sure your jack is supporting the engine. After the initial turn of the bolt, you should be able to back it out by hand if you have it aligned properly. To do a full rotation you would also remove the isolator mount, but just for installing headers, it is not necessary.

    Slowly rotate the engine down, watching to make sure nothing is catching on anything.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Sticky this mo fo!!

    Thank you and everyone else that takes the time to document and photo procedures like these

    Sorry to hear about the ceramic coating.. who did you have do it if you dont mind me asking?

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Awesome! thanks wiznut

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Great write up!!

    Looks like a ton of work! But a great winter project! I love bikes in the living room.

    Sucks about the ceramic are u gong back to the same shop?

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Great job Wiznut, sorry about that coating. hope you get some one to warranty that, but i would check around if thats possible . Good write up. :D

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2010

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Great job and many thanks for such a comprehensive tutorial.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    excellent write up. thanks for the info! +1

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    I contacted the guy that did it and he is being a complete wheasel. So now I am out $140 and a currently ruined set of headers. I have one last argument to make with him before I burn him on the web and with the BBB. I will cost him more in the end than if he had just dealt with his crappy work like he should. Really sucks because I am a broke college student and wont have the money to get them fixed from his work.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    I just realised that I left out the "remove your front fender" step if you are only doing a partial rotation and leaving the front isolator mount on lol... Oh well, I hope that one is pretty self explanitory!

    I also forgot to mention that my bike is a 2007 XB12S, and the procedure does have tiny changes based on the year of production.

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