How to: Rotate your engine : With Pics!

[wiznut]

So the crap ceramic coating job on my headers started to flake as soon as I got them up to temp. So since I had to rotate my engine once more, I thought I would document and share how I did it. Hope it helps somebody out!


Put your bike on a stand in a comfortable area with good lighting. A dining room works particularly well.




Unplug the connector for the fuel pump located behind the left rider foot peg. Then start the bike and let it run out of fuel. "This step is always performed in order to purge fuel lines" according to the service manual.




Remove the seat and disconnect the battery.




Remove the outer airbox, and inner airbox.

Remove the air filter base. (4 bolts) Remember to unplug the sensor at the bottom of the base before pulling it all the way off. The velocity stack is pushed down through the base as you pull it up.






Remove the velocity stack. I find using a strong zip tie works well to pull the spring together.




Cover the induction module




Disconnect the Temperatue and Oxygen sensors




Disconnect the coil




Remove the bolts holding the coil (2 bolts)




Disconnect the Throttle position sensor (2 bolts)




Disconnect the fuel line




Remove the right hand side scoop (3 bolts)



Remove the left hand side scoop (3 bolts)




Disconnect the fuel injector leads. It is easiest to reach up from the bottom to disconnect these.






Everything on the top end should now be disconnected and you should be able to hold up something looking like this




Remove the chin fairing (7 Bolts)




Remove the pulley cover (3 bolts)




Lossen pinch bolt and then loosen rear axle 15 turns to give slack to the belt.





Remove belt tensioner (2 bolts)



Remove rear bands holding the exhaust




Remove front band holding exhaust and loosen the torca clamp holding the exhaust to the header




Remove the muffler and then remove the front muffler mount (1 bolt)




Remove left foot peg mount (3 bolts)




Disconnect the clutch cable. I did this by just removing the clutch lever.






Support the engine with a jack at this point.

Disconnect rear isolator bar from the frame (1 bolt)




Disconnect the center tie bar (2 bolts)




Disconnect the "V" Bracket (3 bolts)




Remove the front isolator bolt. Make sure your jack is supporting the engine. After the initial turn of the bolt, you should be able to back it out by hand if you have it aligned properly. To do a full rotation you would also remove the isolator mount, but just for installing headers, it is not necessary.




Slowly rotate the engine down, watching to make sure nothing is catching on anything.

[Orests]

Perfect !!!

[tazwolf]

I am in the process of rotating my engine on my Ulysses and i have a question
does the rear engine mount center bolt have to be loosened?

[Chicknstripn]

If you're talking about the rear isolator, yes. Loosen it do not remove it.

Go to www.buellmods.com and download a service manual. With the service manual as your instructions and these threads as a guide you should be able to accomplish a trouble free rotation.
Just make sure you follow the manual. Can't go wrong using what the factory technicians used to maintain your ride.

[wally]

I'm planning on replacing rocker cover gaskets this weekend with the James gasket set. I'm sure I will get it waxed with this thread! ��

[tazwolf]

I have the service manual and hence my confusion as the rotation description in this thread seems a lot easier but there is no mention of loosening the rear engine mount/isolator center bolt as there is in the service manual.

[Chicknstripn]

The service manual is your Buell bible.
Write ups aren't sacrament but are good Buell life guides.

[tazwolf]

Ok, Chicknstripn thanks for explaining. Loosen but not remove center bolt, will do.

[wally]

Did it over the weekend and it was easy as pie!

Thanx to the great step by step pics!

Installing the engine was a mission, but fully because of silly mistakes on my part!
Like forgetting to fit front breather tube after I had torqued v-bar and isolator in place and once again after realising the coil wasn't in the correct spot.

Won't be making those mistakes again!

James gaskets fitted, plugs changed - although they were only due after another 5000kms.

All ready for next weekend's trip.

[tazwolf]

Hi all
just wanted to thank the OP, chinkstripn and everyone else who has contributed. I rotated the engine, changed the exhaust gaskets (used James copper ones) and replaces the rear tiebar. Unlike some others i thought it was quite a harrowing experience with the engine creaking plus the fact that i was so concentrated on making sure nothing got trapped that I did not notice that my scissor jack became misaligned with the bottom of the engine, lucky I was wearing dark coloured trousers but it was easier for me to use two scissor jacks, alternating between them.
I did loosen the rear isolator bolt.
I had to loosen the strap securing the gearbox vent tube on the frame as i was afraid it might become disconnected due to stretching.
otherwise, it went ok, I will do it again without hesitation if I have to, but I would not say it is easy, for me at least with no experience of wrenching.

thanks!