How to: Rotate your engine : With Pics!

[24_7]

I contacted the guy that did it and he is being a complete wheasel. So now I am out $140 and a currently ruined set of headers. I have one last argument to make with him before I burn him on the web and with the BBB. I will cost him more in the end than if he had just dealt with his crappy work like he should. Really sucks because I am a broke college student and wont have the money to get them fixed from his work

Man I would be pissed... I had ASB send mine to Jet-Hot and thank God they guarantee it. I hope that douche makes it right for you.

[onelogue]

So will the engine rotate more for access to the rear cylinder?

[wiznut]

So will the engine rotate more for access to the rear cylinder?

Yeah, it will. I only dropped it as far as I needed to get to the rear cylinder. You cant tell from the angle of the pics I took, but there is a clear shot to the rear cylinder with how far I had the engine down.

[vospertw]

wiznut, great job. I'll ask the dumb questions...

Front isolator bolt - you mention it should back out by hand if everything is aligned properly... what is the solution if it doesn't? Also, you mention only removing the bolt and say for a full engine rotation you'd need to remove the isolator mount as well. Couple of questions then - What can be accomplished with a "partial" rotation vs. full rotation (I guess the point is - how do I know if I can get away with just removing the bolt)? What defines "full rotation" (mechanically - is there a stop of some kind)and will something break/bend/etc. if only the bolt is removed but the engine continues to rotate?

I will be at 10K sometime this spring and while I know you can change the plugs without rotating the engine, I thought I would do it anyway to get to know the bike a little better. Thanks in advance!

[wiznut]

wiznut, great job. I'll ask the dumb questions...

Front isolator bolt - you mention it should back out by hand if everything is aligned properly... what is the solution if it doesn't? Also, you mention only removing the bolt and say for a full engine rotation you'd need to remove the isolator mount as well. Couple of questions then - What can be accomplished with a "partial" rotation vs. full rotation (I guess the point is - how do I know if I can get away with just removing the bolt)? What defines "full rotation" (mechanically - is there a stop of some kind)and will something break/bend/etc. if only the bolt is removed but the engine continues to rotate?

I will be at 10K sometime this spring and while I know you can change the plugs without rotating the engine, I thought I would do it anyway to get to know the bike a little better. Thanks in advance!

1) if it does not back up by hand after the first turn, raise / lower the jack slightly until it does. I just put some pressure on the bolt while raising the stand slowly. As soon as it lines up, the bolt will turn.

2)I only did a partial rotation to replace my headers. You would do a full rotation and remove the isolator mount if you wanted to do top end work such as replacing gaskets. If you leave the isolator mount on like I did, you can only rotate the engine as far as the tire, but with it off, you can rotate it all the way down.

[fwkapaun]

Two Big, I'd also like to give you a rep point. Great tutorial.

[vospertw]

2)If you leave the isolator mount on like I did, you can only rotate the engine as far as the tire, but with it off, you can rotate it all the way down.

Thanks wiz. I'm having trouble picturing this but I'm sure it will make more sense when I do it. One of those "ah ha" moments.

[Atomicpunk]

Thanks for writing this up. +1 Rep point This should be a sticky thread!!

[BikerTrash]

VERY nice tutorial! Thanks! I might be doing the sometime.

[Lando]

awesome job, this is going to make my life allot easier when i do the rocker cover gaskets.