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Thread: How do you all shift on the Blast

  1. #21
    Yeah, that's kind of what's throwing me off. I always thought high RPM was bad for the engine.

    I can see riding in first gear going 25 in a lengthy neighborhood, but I feel like you're putting your engine to work?

    Simply, I don't know enough about motorcycle engines and gears to really know.

  2. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    624
    My 1125 just clicks, and the Blast just clicks, whoever was in charge of the shift pawl adjustment at the factory sucked - pure and simple, because almost everyone notices a big difference after the adjustment, if they did their primary and clutch adjustment correctly as well. The pro's - like Terry P. - his wife's clicks even better than his Uly, because he did the adjustment on it. They are not suposed to be that hard shifting, they are for beginner riders. That saw is just lazy ass HD rider and mechanics way of avoiding work - typical SBs.
    EZ

  3. #23
    Okay, so what it's going to take to fix this? Do I have to take the engine off, etc.? Or can I work on it while it's on the bike?

    Do I need parts?

  4. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    624
    Not necessarily, often a a good clutch adjustment followed by a good primary adjustment will do the job for most.
    EZ

  5. #25
    Would it be the same case if the only gear I'm having trouble with is second? Everything else seems fine. Clunky, but not grinding. It grinds just about every time I go into second gear.

  6. #26
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    624
    Second gear, yeah - I would try the clutch adjustment, usually only grinds/clunks on a first first gear shift from neutral. Second should be smooth, unless you are shifting too soon. If you shift higher up - say 30 or above does it grind? If yes - then adjust clutch.

    Loosen primary, pull clutch lever in and tie down, loosen clutch adjustment at the cable adjuster, loosen peg arm - no need to take off - have a primary inspection gasket handy to replace old, adjust clutch at primary - very soft bottoming of adjustment screw, then 1/4 turn out, button up, release clutch lever, adjust clutch cable at cable, adjust primary by book except 14 flats out instead of 4 - lol - and after 1/2 hour riding adjust primary by sound method.
    EZ

  7. #27
    Yeah, it's more likely to grind when I am in the higher RPM.

    Last time I changed my trans fluid I adjusted the clutch according to the service manual.

    I freaking hate taking off that primary cover :).

    I'll give it another go.

  8. #28
    I've also been noticing a smoother shift from 1st to 2nd when I'm around 20mph or below. Anything above and I feel like I'm soon not going to have any gears left to grind.

  9. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    624
    You shift into second too soon and it will start dropping out on you due to slowly bending the shift forks with early shifting too low in the rpm range. Just make sure the shifts are firm and precise, and try to match rpms. All you need to take off is the inspection cover, not the primary cover. If your going to keep the stock style pegs and shifter then replace the peg arm nuts with lock washers and threaded rod couplings - for loosening and removing - makes it very easy to do then.
    EZ

  10. #30
    You ever run 4th gear in the 65-70mph range?



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