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Thread: Help me understand primary adjust

  1. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    624
    The best method - is loosen till you hear a change in noise - any change, then tighten till change is gone, set and lock. A loose primary is better than tight because tight will take out the clutch adjuster bearing, drag - robbing power and top end, and take out the tension-er itself. The sound method isn't too loose because it adjusts before the sound starts that starts the other problems. and if your going by the book method - best to go 12 flats out - not eight, because 8 will still be a tad tight, 12 may be also, but a lot less than 8 and if you can easily get to 95mph then its fine - lol
    EZ

  2. #12
    Okay, I just made some adjustments, but it doesn't seem to make a lot of sense according to your description.

    I'm not saying your wrong, I'm thinking I didn't do it correctly.

    I warmed up the bike riding around, came back on a flat surface and propped the bike up vertically. I loosened the lock nut, took out the factory spacer, then attempted to make the adjustments (with engine running). The only thing I could hear when the bolt was screwed quite far in was a squealing noise. I tried loosening to the point that thought the bolt was ready to come out and I couldn't hear a thing. I was expecting to hear some sounds as everyone seems to say happens when the bolt is out.

    I'm reading your description as saying that I should be hearing sounds with the bolt out, not in. Mine seems the opposite.

    What's going on here?

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1,317
    On an XB bike,WITH the bike OFF,remove the 2 screws where the primary chain is now exposed.Wiht it cold push the chain up with your finger BIKE not Running!There's a allen and a large nut use a box end wrench if you have one.How much slack is in the up and down when pushing on the chain?There should be no more than COLD on primary chain 1/4 of up and down play.There are manuals at the top of the page for reference if needed.If the primary is hot just let it cool down.There's a reason for that.How many miles are on this Bike?Should'nt take more than a turn or so of the Allen under the primary case.May want to go up to the Manuals top of the page and read up on this so as to be more familar with your bike.Take your time and you will get it.If you keep riding it around you can damage the needle bearings and much more.Start from the beginning and you should be OK.*Jimi

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1,317
    Dang it didn't see he had a Blast, RT/Performance has taken care of that, info,Oh well I better get back to work. Jimi

  5. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    624
    OK - surely there is some kind of noise if you loosen it enough, listen carefully - get off the bike and leave it on its kick stand, and on in N, and slowly loosen it, there will be a change, then tighten it back till that change in noise dis-appears.

    If you really get no sound, then you have a rather tight chain - which is lucky, most don't - for that case do it by the manuals method, except instead of the 4 flats out go 14 - and you'll be fine forever, and never have to adjust it again, unless adjusting your clutch, etc.
    EZ

  6. #16
    I'll do it again, but I am quite positive there was no sound when loosening, besides the absence of sound. I'll try it again, though, except this time with the kick stand down.

  7. #17
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    1
    So did it work out?



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