I need a clutch kit for a 03 XB9R... Whats the best kit?

[mackdogman]

Question 1.
I have a 2003 XB9R. Im doing my mods this winter & need to replace the clutch along with the cable. I have no problems doing it I just wanted to ask if anyone had a certain clutch brand they like most. I dont need the basket but do want to change the springs while I am there.

Question 2.
My title says 2003 but my bike vin plate says November 2002. The 2002 clutch kit should work right? The reason I ask is im not sure i there were any changes from 02 to 03 models. The only kits I find only go up to 2002 year models.
Thanks for any help or links.

[jimijeans]

You will be ok with the 2003 parts, the 2002 Vin number is actually for 2003s sales and year etc..Barrett has clutches(Performance Shop parts) if you want to go that route. Possibly American Sport Bike. And of Course the Dealer.
The Stock Clutch pack parts will work just as well, especially if it's just for street riding. Might want to replace the Ball Bearing the Rear Needle bearing the Inner race and Inner & Outer Thrust Washers. Make sure before you install the New Clutch Cable to get some Inox Lube and put about 20 drops inside the Cables Housing. Let it run from one end to the other and that cable will be very Smooth to operate.
If you use Oil or other types of Lube W/D 40 and such it will Evaporate or become Sticky and hard to operate, possibly wearing out the cable prematurely OR it may snap it. When [Assembling] use some Transmission Fluid inbetween Plates and Clutches to wet the parts so it does not start up dry.
Good luck on your Mods.Make sure to have to correct Tools to open up the Clutch Basket. After all is done make sure to change the fluid at about 500/miles. You can break in the New clutches with Formula from Harley. Then at 400 to no more than 500/miles change to Redline OR your preferred Brand as long as it is at Least Synthetic 20/50.*Jimi

[Hammel13]

Heres an option for the clutch, I ordered one and will be putting it in my bike when it arrives. It even comes with the Clutch compression tool.

Energy One Clutches w/ Tool

[motohead1125r]

This one from EBR is a great clutch.http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/xb9/alto-carbonite-clutch-pack.html

[mackdogman]

Thanks guys. I know I need the tool so that seems like a good deal. Also thanks jimijeans for insight on lube for the clutch cable, that will help allot. Another question is after I replace the clutch should the bike still jump when going in 1st gear from a dead stop or be able to feel it kinda grind into 1st gear? My clutch cable is adjusted all the way out & several attempts adjusting clutch hasn't helped so I know it needs a new clutch just hope this will help with that 1st gear problem I feel.

[nilla]

i put in a energy one clutch, and tossed the judder plate and spring (like the instructions tell you to)
mine still jumps when i snick it into gear, but it gets up and goes when i slip the clutch to down shift and let it out coming out of a turn. maybe i notice it more because i was getting used to riding with a ****ty clutch

and you can make your own 'clutch tool' get a tuna can, and some flat metal. you can send me the 74 dollars i just saved you.

[mackdogman]

Nah you can keep the tuna can lol. I have a buddy that has one I will use.

[JOEL9]

i thought my clutch was going too. it startd really clunking going into gear & wanting to go with the clutch lever pulled in. i adjusted it i don't how many times until i discovered the lip on my primary was cracked. if you haven't, check it out first. here's mine..

[user_deleted]

Heres an option for the clutch, I ordered one and will be putting it in my bike when it arrives. It even comes with the Clutch compression tool.

Energy One Clutches w/ Tool

that's a screaming good deal. thanks for posting. jimi....what is this INOX lube you speak of? sounds sexy. :D

[jimijeans]

Yes before you spend your hard earned money.Unless you just want to Maintain. Check the primary Cover at the clutch inspection plate that JOEL9 has provided. If that is good then [possibly] you have the cable adjustment at the Front header is out of adjustment. Many times here in the Shop I have found the Owner got it so far out of adjustment that impatience got the best of them.
Might start from the Outside cable at the front header and work in from that point. Remove the 3 screws from Primarys Cover Plate & gasket. Gasket goes on a certain way keep it Dry & mark if needed when reusing. Now pull up and down a bit on the Cable where it attaches,to the Ramp inside the inspection area. Is there some slack at the Cables Ramp connection?
The Ramp should have no Tension and be seated towards the rear at a slight angle which is fully released. Now you can adjust the Outer Cable & unlock the jam nut in Front of the Engines Front Header. Only need two wrenches for that.Only a Turn at a Time upwards(Tighten)OR to remove the Cable Slack.(CCW) and check. Make sure to leave the cable clamped to the front of the Engine. Keep Track of that adjustment! Take care with the rubber Boot.
Adjust it till the slack is just 1/16th at the Ramps inner cable connection & not pulling on the Ramp Assembly at all.I don't know the wear so that will start. Make sure to Gently Pull the Clutch Lever Smoothly & Slowly While you watch it for testing. There needs to be a dimes slack at the Clutch Lever OR a 1/16th where the Clutch Lever is Fully Released against the Perch (Hand lever clamp) after all is done.
After that is done you can now Adjust the Clutch basket assemblys flat Screw maybe a 1/4 turn Clockwise at a Time and test if needed. Hope this helps at least get the Grind out till you are ready to fix it up.*Jimi