Stalling out

[zordeles]

LOL Yeah, I totally understand and agree, thats why I'm here asking questions. Which brings me to......
Is it possible for it to act like this, if the PO didnt rejet the carb? I obviously won't know until I tear into it, but if it wasnt rejetted, is it even a possibility it would cause it? I do plan on doing it myself, just to be sure, unfortunately I can't get the cash up for a cpl weeks, and with little children around, time is limited too. I was just out with it idling now, started fine, but idle is strange....seems to idle good for 20-30 secs, pops, bogs for a moment, then repeats. And after a cpl minutes, it starts idling higher. I can prolly do up a vid later if that would help explain it?

I prefer to do my own work on my vehicles, if/when it's possible. I'm more comfortable being my own mechanic, so if something goes wrong, it's either MY fault, or it's something new. LOL At least as far as MY ownership of said vehicle goes.

That said, once this issue is fixed, I plan on doing some of the mods Ive seen around. I like the idea of the side pipe, instead of the under pipe. Right now, I'm still running a stock exhaust. But, those ides will have to wait.

**** And to add, the module is the Twin Tek 1005 model, if that helps any. Ive never had rides with electronics, so this is all new stuff to me. :)

[pierce]

Wrong jetting will cause to run lean/rich, but not to cut out. Plugged jet would cause it to run poorly, or not at all, including when its cold. So I think for now I would look elsewhere. I am a carb man, have worked on lots of carbs, and it just doesn't show any symptoms of a bad carb. However, taking off the float bowl and verifying what jets you have might be a good idea. That has little to do with your problem though.

Stay strong, you also might want to get some advice on BuellRidersOnline.com as there are quite a few very knowledgable blast guys on the site that are very quick to troubleshoot. There are also blast owners that have experience with that module on the site.

[zordeles]

Wrong jetting will cause to run lean/rich, but not to cut out. Plugged jet would cause it to run poorly, or not at all, including when its cold.

Yeah, I told ya I was getting frustrated....that didnt even occur to me and it should have. LOL

I'll head over to the other site later and see what answers I can find there.

[zordeles]

***UPDATE**

Ok, since I was here last, I spent a few hours listening to other Blasts via youtube, and it dawned on me that the *cough* I was getting is a misfire (obvious I know but sometimes the simple answers kinda tiptoe past). So, I adjusted my timing a shade and now it no longer coughs and quits on idle. Actually purrs (or growls LOL) like its supposed to. I have taken it out for a cpl 10 minute rides and so far so good.
I'll know for certain later today after I try to get past the 20 minute warm up (where it's been quitting). I'm starting to think that when I got the bike, I should have taken someone with me who knew Blasts. Could have avoided these issues altogether. Boot was bad causing it to idle extremely high, and hiding the timing being off. For the moment it seems to be running like it was supposed to. Definetely better than it has been up til now.

I certainly am going to keep watch on the ignition module tho. From what Ive read on other forums, these symptoms are indicative of IM failure imminent. I'll just have to hope and pray that it's ok now and I don't have to put it up and wait for the $$ to get a new IM.
I'll post back later on whether Ive broken the 20 minute barrier Ive been hitting, or if it's still there. :)

[zordeles]

***UPDATE***
Well, I took it out, rode for about 15 minutes, got close to home just in case and sure enough....turned a corner, she sputters and quits. Tried to restart and just cranks. Pulled over into a driveway and sat there looking stupid for a cpl minutes and it starts back up. At this point, I was only a cpl blocks from home. So....it's gotta be a bad IM.
On a side note tho, once it cooled off it starts back up fine and purrs like its supposed to. *sigh*

So....since I currently have the Twin Tec 1005 module and the 3 ohm coil to match, can I just get a stock IM to put back in? And if I do this, do I have to replace the coil, or will it be ok with the 3 ohm?
Either way, right now I can't afford a freakin module for it anyhow and I'm stuck listening to the wife complain about my "worthless POS".

[Mark XB12r]

Either way, right now I can't afford a freakin module for it anyhow and I'm stuck listening to the wife complain about my "worthless POS".

Hahaha! tell her you would be able to aford a new part after the divorce

[zordeles]

LMFAO Yeah, riiiight....then with my luck the judge would award her the car, bike and just about everything else I have. :P

I'm attempting to browse ebay to see if I can find an OEM module. Not that I want a 2nd hand part, but to get an idea what it might cost me.

[jetlee]

The oem ignition module requires a .5ohm coil.

[zordeles]

Thanks for the info. Since the PO did the swap-out from OEM to hi-per, is there anything I need to do special? Or can I get OEM parts and just swap and set the timing?

[pierce]

I have my old used oem ignition if you looking for something that might be a bit more affordable. It was running just fine when I swapped it out for a programmable one.