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Thread: Voltage Regulator or Stator?

  1. #21
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I know it sucks to type a bunch, but THANK YOU for the details.

    A 10-18mA draw is too much, 1.1 is OK. It sounds like you know why it draws. My guess is the Alarm system starter disconnect relay is wired incorrectly. It should only be active when the alarm is armed, the ignition circuit hot, AND the starter button is pressed. (#30 to starter, #87 to starter button and jumped to #85, #86 to alarm)

    You're voltage dropping to 7 when it's cranking slow, tells me you need a battery.

    It sounds like all of your charging system is OK.

  2. #22
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    with fully charged battery disconnect the negative cable. using a multi-meter set on DC AMPS connect one meter lead to end of negative cable and other lead to negative battery post. a constant current draw of more than approx. 1/2 amp means a problem and eventual dead battery. this test done of course with ignition OFF. start removing each blade fuse individually...then each relay. watch the meter for change. when it changes you've found the circuit with the excessive drain on the battery.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    with fully charged battery disconnect the negative cable. using a multi-meter set on DC AMPS connect one meter lead to end of negative cable and other lead to negative battery post. a constant current draw of more than approx. 1/2 amp means a problem and eventual dead battery. this test done of course with ignition OFF. start removing each blade fuse individually...then each relay. watch the meter for change. when it changes you've found the circuit with the excessive drain on the battery.
    I performed this test yesterday, and it shows 10-18 mA with alarm system+mLock system. If I disconnect the alarm system it eats 7-10 mA. If I disconnect both alarm system and mLock system the motorcycle circuit with ignition off eats 1.1 mA. But even 10-18 mA is way smaller than 1/2 Amp (500 mA).

    When my motorcycle is resting with ignition turned off and without charger it has no issues, it holds charge, It starts easy after weeks with no riding and with no battery on the charger. The issue is that something drained the battery very fast while I was riding, or the charging system was not working properly.

    Today I checked the battery in a few different auto-parts stores and testers say the battery is good. So I am confused.
    Last edited by TPEHAK; 03-08-2016 at 03:55 AM.

  4. #24
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    So I am confused.
    see link below. buy one of these. it has 2 plain leads.
    wire lead with white tracer to any switched positive source. i use orange headlight feed wire.
    wire lead without white tracer to any ground. i use black headlight feed wire.
    mount to flat pad atop left handlebar switchgear.
    now ride. on low beam with no accessories operating it must read between 13.1 and 14.4 volts.
    does it? nice
    does it not? post back.
    so simple.



    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-R...FWOvzD&vxp=mtr
    Last edited by user_deleted; 03-08-2016 at 01:40 PM.

  5. #25
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    OK, it happened again, a couple days ago the battery voltage dropped to 12 volts after one hour morning commute, I even noticed the engine check light while riding for a moment, which means low voltage on the battery. Before the morning commute the battery was fully charged. But at the same day after returning home the battery had been fully charged after this one hour trip back home. And I did not wash the motorcycle before that day, and it was dry warm day.

    I plugged heat gear that morning, but did not use it. And it was working OK with the heat gear another days. The heat gear has Radio Control module, is it possible that it can have a glitch and the receiver can eat amperes with no hitting the heat gear?

    So I bought the voltmeter and soldered it in the Front 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet wires. On the 2009 Buell XB this outlet works only when engine run, but I believe it does not affect on the voltage reading.




    I mounted the voltmeter to the bar clamp with double-side tape









    And here is the results








    Any suggestions?
    Last edited by TPEHAK; 04-02-2016 at 05:45 AM.

  6. #26
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    with all the gadgets, trinkets, alarms, m-locks, radio control modules, heated gear and other assorted paraphernalia you've been mentioning who knows where the problem lies. as per the volt gauge i suggested your bike is charging within specs.

  7. #27
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    It's charging to spec in the pics, but sounds like an intermittent no charging issue

    I'll look at the wiring diagram tomorrow to see if there's a control wire to the VR. Cars have an exciter that turns the alternator (stator and VR) on and off with the ignition to stop parasitic draw. Maybe these have one too and it has an intermittent connection?

    It would say something about it in the diagnostic area of your manual, I'm just way to tired to look right now.

    Have you checked the usual suspects? #77 connector? 30a fuse corrosion??
    Last edited by Cooter; 04-04-2016 at 01:10 AM.

  8. #28
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    I checked the connectors #77 and connectors #46, they are OK. I did not check the 30 Ampere fuse yet.

    I've performed a long trip yesterday and it looks like my heat gear affect the system voltage, it can slightly reduce the system voltage even without heating just with connected heat gear controller, at idle RPM the voltage drops below 12.8 volts with connected but not using heat gear controller, maybe this is the issue, because all those dead battery days my heat gear was connected and I was staying in heavy traffic long time. When I fire up the hear gear to full capacity the system voltage drops below 12.4 volts at idle and below 13.1 volts at high RPM.
    Last edited by TPEHAK; 04-04-2016 at 03:18 AM.

  9. #29
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    This morning after one hour commute the battery again dropped to 12 volts. I did not connect my heat gear, so the gear is not the issue. It looks like my motorcycle does not like to idle long time in slow traffic.

    Once I started the motorcycle this morning it showed 13.1 volts at idle 1100 RPM and 14.2 volts at RPM higher than 2000. Then I started my ride and within half an hour of slow riding and idling in the slow morning traffic the system voltage slowly dropped to 12.1 volts at idle 1100 RPM, 13.1 volts at 2000 RPM and about 13.8 volts at 3000 RPM.

    In one hour I got my work place and checked the system voltage:

    12.3 volts at idle 1100 RPM (12.1 volts with working fan)




    13.4 volts at 2000 RPM





    14.1 volts at RPM higher than 3000




    What does it mean?

    I checked all fuses, they look very good, no any rust, like brand new.

    Before I back home tonight the battery voltage was 12 volts, once I got home the battery voltage was 12.4 volts, tonight traffic was not too bad so I did not idle on the back way home.
    Last edited by TPEHAK; 04-06-2016 at 04:32 AM.

  10. #30
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    Did you disconnect all your accessories completely, if you have them hard wired in, I would try that first, before replacing any expensive parts.



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