Reply With QuoteI have to give you ajust for all the work you did on the DIY . Looks good . Did you win that in the raffle this weekend ?
I know XBdashboards has instructions on the web site, but it is just for the lightning as far as I can see. So I am going to try and explain the best i can for the firebolt side of the family.
Completion time: About an hour if you take your time.
Mechanic Skills Needed: Moderate
Tools needed:
1 Phillips Head screw driver.
5/16 socket (I believe so)
10 mm wrench
10 mm socket
3 mm hex wrench
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You will start out with your stock dash as shown.
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First you have to remove the front fairing. Start by removing the mirrors which are connected by the bolts shown in the mirror. 10 mm socket needed.
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Once the mirrors are removed I recommend placing the nuts back on the mirrors so that they are not lost during the install.
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Next you will remove the turn signals. I have after market turn signals so they will look different from your tock ones if you have stock. it is the same process though. Remove the backing nut and disconnect the wires from the harness. be careful not to pull from the wire, but instead hold the connector when you pull.
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Next you will remove the two lower hex head bolts from the front of the fairing which is also through the wind screen. You will need the 3mm hex head for this portion. When removing the bolts be careful that the plastic washer not be lost during removal.
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Carefully remove the front fairing and place aside.
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Your bike should now look like this. If it doesn't your on the wrong side of the bike taking things apart.:D
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You will now loosen and remove the bolts that hold the light and electronic assembly in place. the two on the top come completely out. the two on the bottom you can loosen and pull straight out and it will come free.
Top Bolts 10 mm
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Bottom side bolts 10 mm
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Once all the bolts are loosened you can pull the assembly straight out and rest it on the front fender like so.
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Now it is time to loosen the dash assembly from the front fairing stay. There are two bolts on top and one on the bottom right next to the horn. 5/16(I believe)
Be careful when removing the nuts from the dashboard assembly and don't lose the small metal washer that will also be removed.
Top Bolt
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Bottom Bolt
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Once detached you will need to disconnect the wiring harness connector from the back of the dashboard. it is a small release button you have to disengage. Press and hold firmly and pull. Do no pull from the wires. pull using the housing of the connector.
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Now remove your Dashboard.
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You will now remove the 7 phillips head screws around the perimeter of the dashboard housing. this is on the back side.
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Do not remove the 2 center screws. this will remove the entire circuit board.
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When you have all of the screws removed you can now carefully pry the front cover from the back.
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You will now remove the two needles. Sometimes they will remove easily by hand, but if not you can use two spoons on either side of the needle. Apply the same amount of pressure on each side of the needle upward. Do not force the needles you can bend and break them. You also do not want to turn the needle, because it can get out of zero. You can fix it later if it does happen so don't stress to much.
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Once the needles have been removed remove the face plate. it is glued in so be careful when removing, because you don't want to break it.
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Now its time to line up the new face plate and snap it in place.
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There will be two notches at the top of the plate that will fit snuggly here.
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Place the needles back in the hole pressing gently downward, being careful not to bend the shaft, until it is just above the plate. you don't want to push all the way down because they won't move then.
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Now plug the dash back in and turn on the key. you are now checking to see if the needles are zeroed correctly on the tach. if they are not remove and position until you can get it correctly. This can take some time, but be patient you will get it. Make sure the needles move freely when the bike is turned on and off.
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When you have the dashboard zeroed go ahead and disconnect it and attach the front face plate by installing the 7 phillips head screws. Ensure they go in straight to not strip out the preexisting hole.
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Make sure this rubber gasket is in its place on the inside of the front cover when placing over the back.
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Connect the wiring to the dashboard and ensure the rubber boot is completely over the connector.
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Place the dashboard back in the holes and install the washer and nut and tighten firmly.
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Now place the light and electrical housing bottom end first in the notches then line up the top holes.
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Place the top bolts in and hand tighten until all bolts are lined up correctly. Tighten all four evenly until they are firmly tightened.
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Position the fairing back on the bike like so.
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Line the windscreen holes up and insert the hex bolt and tighten. Ensure the plastic washer is on before installing. Do not over tighten, because this could crack the plastic.
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Install the blinkers and reconnect them to the wiring harness. Ensure they work by turning the key on and signaling both sides. You don't want to get out on the road and they not work.
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Install your mirrors ensuring they are on the correct side and tighten the bolts shown.
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You have now successfully installed your new dashboard face plate.
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I have to give you a
No Cody did, but he traded me for the shirt I won. He didn't like the white and it matched my bike. He wanted a shirt so it worked out for the both of us. Thanks FlaXB9R.
Nice detail!
Looks good!
Nice write-up...makes me glad I have an S though, 20 mins start-to-finish
Dude, Thanks for the diy it will save me some time on mine.
Thanks guys. Hope it helps someone out.
Nicely done DIY.
Anyone had problems with tahcometer not working properly after dashboard swap? I changed mine and now my tacho needle is very sticky between 1000-1500rpm. It barely moves and if I twist the throttle just a little it doesn't react at all or then does very "sharp" jump, not following rpms as it should. It still does the check ok as I turn on the key. Needle is definitely not too deep as I can see a good amount of the needle shaft. Should it just be deeper so that I can barely see the shaft?
did you press the needle down too hard?
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