Reply With QuoteYou running a motorcycle specific, full synthetic in the tranny?
Hi all, thanks in advance for reading and any assistance.
I have a very loud clunk and hard shift from neutral to first, though all my other shifting seems ok. I'll do a primary chain inspection as soon as I can, though it almost seems as if it were the chain having too much deflection that I'd have a hard time going through the other gears. My primary oil level is good, just checked it this weekend. It's always shifted like this, I always just thought since it was a HD that I'd get this, but it seems pretty severe.
Any ideas, or is this normal?
You running a motorcycle specific, full synthetic in the tranny?
Indeed I am, currently I'm using the Redline 20w50, though reading up on the engine/primary oil thread I know that may not be ideal.
Hey Justaerin,
I had the same problem with my 04 'Bolt, definitely check your primary chain tension, but also make sure your clutch and clutch cable are properly adjusted.
Your primary chain (at least mine) is supposed to have 1/2" to 3/4" play. Mine has 3/4" and is quiet.
Next adjust yoour clutch by:
1- shorten the clutch cable housing, get lots of slack, say a 3/8" gap at the clutch lever perch where the cable enters the clutch lever perch. Loosen the lock nut and screw the adjuster nut to make the cable housing shorter, increasing the gap at the clutch perch. You want to make sure that the cable is not pulling on the clutch ramp at all when you screw the clutch ramp adjuster screw all the way counterclockwise till it bottoms.
2- Remove the clutch inspection cover and remove the spring and lockplate. Using a flat blade screwdriver turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until it bottoms gently. Check that there is no tension on the clutch cable. Now turn the screw 1/4 - 1/2 turn clockwise. Replace the spring and locking plate. If the hex on lock-plate does not align with the recess in the outer ramp, rotate adjusting screw clockwise until it aligns, but don't go beyond the 1/2 turn. If you have to rotate it the adjusting screw in the other direction till the lock plate fits, but make sure you still have the minimum 1/4" clockwise turn.
3- Adjust your clutch cable so that when you pull on the clutch cable housing away from the clutch lever you have a 1/16" - 1/8" gap between the ferrule (metal end of the housing) and the clutch lever bracket
Once you get all those adjustments done that is about as good as it is going to get. As Steven says, you should also be running 20-50W full synthetic in the tranny.
I did all those adjustments and I still got a pretty good clunk and sometimes the bike would even jerk a bit when I shifted from neutral into 1st.
I just recently installed a hydraulic clutch from ASB and after adjusting the clutch per their specs for the hydraulic clutch my bike shifts into first smooth as silk, no more clunk/crunch or jerking of the bike, it is wonderful. It also seems to shift better through the other gears as well now. Plus now the clutch is an easy 2 finger pull. Not a cheap mod, but well worth it.
Good luck
Hey thanks OldGeezer! I adjusted the clutch over the weekend, but only behind the inspection cover, and not the actual cable. I will take a look at that this weekend.
And checking out that mod on ASB, it sounds relatively easy - how was the install? I can't believe you only have to take off the inspection cover to do the install, that's awesome and on my list of mods for sure.
Rep for you sir, for being so helpful.
Why thank you Justaerin, much appreciated.
When you look at your cable this week end, give it a lot of slack first then adjust the clutch, then adjust the cable, should make a fair difference.
The hydraulic clutch mod is really easy, apart from taking the clutch cover off you have to take the stock clutch bracket & lever off (they provide a new clutch bracket, lever and MC), remove the two wires from the clutch switch plug and attach them to the new switch which is provided. There are excellent step by step instructions specific to Buells that come with the kit, including a service kit in case you need to cut the hydraulic line shorter. You could also just put a small loop in the hydraulic line and zip tie it if you are thinking of changing your handle bars or want to ride it for a while before cutting it shorter. The length is more of an issue with the Firebolts than with the Lightnings I believe.
It is a piece of cake to do and will take maybe 1/2 hour to 3/4 hour to do.
As you can tell I am pretty keen about it, it really made a huge difference to the way my bike shifts.
I also bought the enhanced clutch cable retainer bracket, which replaces the wire one near the front header and which has a habit of breaking and letting your clutch cable or hydraulic hose rest against the front header pipe. The hydraulic line is very small and easy to route. I zip tied it to the cable retainer, to the strut below that and to my chin fairing to keep it away from anything hot or abrasive. So I'm a little paranoid when it comes to Mr. Murphy, what can I say :)
I'm with you all the way on that, I try to nip all of those potential issues ahead of time, heat and abrasion can be the worst gremlins of all if left unchecked.
Definitely on my list for the next 6 months or so!
Bump
Is "Bump" how I 'subscribe' to a thread I want, to follow?
Wow that sounds like a worth while mod...goin on my list too! Thanks for the info Old Geezer!:D
You're welcome guys, I don't think you will be disappointed by the mod.
ieepnh I don't know how you subscribe to a thread on this forum, but if you click on the My Posts button (right under the BuellParts.net banner) it lists all the threads you have posted to, with the most recent at the top, so that is an easier way to follow it. I think a bump is merely a post to a thread so as to bring it to the top of the list of recent posts. If a thread has info you want to keep you can save the pages on your computer for later viewing.
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