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Thread: Relay Clicking/No Start

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    I was riding the bike home the other day in good weather and noticed that all the indicators did a reset while I was riding (tach and speed reset, check engine light came on and went off).


    The bike continued running until I got home.

    When I went to start the bike after shut down I ran into the following issues.

    At switch to on position, a buzz happens in the Relay Box, indicator lights glow dimly then go off. No starter and no fuel pump activity. No lights, no horn.

    I thought it could be a blown relay, I replaced all relays and still the same issues persist.

    Anyone have any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Senior Member d_adams's Avatar
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    Dead battery.

  3. #3
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    Yes, same thing happened to me, dead battery. It may check o.k. until you put a load on it.

  4. #4
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    I had to get a push start yesterday from my buddies due to dead battery. Starting symptoms were similar to yours. I'd turn the key and it would clack a lot without turning over, and sometimes it would start on the second try.

  5. #5
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    I attempted a rolling start but figured it wasn't working because there was no power. I will attempt to jump it off when i get home today. Will post results.

  6. #6
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    Clock resets means no power to the ECM.

    Advice to load test is best, it should read 200CCA.

    Sounds dead but sounds like that came as a total surprise to you. That is, there were no previous symptoms.

    So, first, make sure battery will charge and hold the above rating.

    If yes, you have to move on to your charging system.

  7. #7
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    Odd thing is I got the battery in May from batteries plus.

  8. #8
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    UPDATE:

    Just jumped the bike off.

    It did start up, however, upon disconnecting the jumpers the bike immediately cuts off.

    Could this be a rectifier, something else?

  9. #9
    Senior Member d_adams's Avatar
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    I still say battery.

  10. #10
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    Could be both, but i would get the batt charged up, then load test, when a good batt is established check for 13.5-14 vdc (closer to 14 is optimal) while running.
    In "theory" it should run on the generator, but with a severely discharged batt or one with a bad cell it will stall once you remove the cables, as you did.
    With a moderately discharged batt you can jump it repeatedly and run it until you get a replacement batt.



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