You should be able to watch the voltage with EMCSpy, at least, log it then take a look with Mega Log Viewer
When I was out running the codes I was looking through for anything abnormal and with the bike idling during warmup it was pushing out 13V...I noted it and have been researching all afternoon. Think the VR is on it's way out and just letting too much current run through???
Is there a way to test the VR?
KC
well, the voltage regulator should be working just fine if it stays pretty much the same value when revving the engine.
Voltage needs to be about 13.5 - 15
if your voltage is dropping, that could cause your lights to go out.
your regulator is bad if it's putting out higher than 15v. also your lights wouldn't shut off, they'd probably burn up.
Only reason I can think of that the voltage would drop is due to a poopy stator.
from the manual:
Code:Voltage output @ 3600 RPM 14.4-14.6 VDC@ 75° F
not with hids, the ballast may have voltage protection and turn them selves off to keep from blowing
Jaimz,
I was thinking just what ct1200 is. I'm (in my lack of knowledge) that the voltage is too high and the ballasts are shutting down when it's revved up high(IE boosting voltage). Gotta head to work for now, but I'll be looking at the voltage either tonight or tomorrow after school, she'll be up on stands till I figure this out.
Correct me if I'm wrong:
If it's pushing over 14.6 at around 3600 I'm coming to the conclusion the regulator is failing which is pushing the high V out to the headlights which is tripping the ballasts as under normal circumstances the stock bulbs would blow.
Once again I appreciate everyone's input. If you think of something else that I'm not feel free to throw it into the mix.
KC
^^This sounds right. Get some readings at the battery, and coming out of the VR...
yes, with normal bulbs they would blow.
I completely forgot about your HID's
jb weld this and there you go!
Make sure the grounds and sense wire for the VR are clean.
Not that it's anywhere near the same vehicle, but on old Dodges the connectors for the sense wire get corroded and the resistance makes the VR see less voltage than the alternator is putting out. It then raises voltage until it sees what it likes, cooking batteries and whatnot. And always check the grounds, just because problems that make no sense is what they specialize in.
It may actually need a VR, but if you've got time it never hurts to check the free stuff first.
Well after some lovely research and some elbow grease, everything (physically) looks fine. Have a replacement VR in the mail, if that fixes the problem I will gladly post it up. If not I guess I'll go from there....
KC
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