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Thread: Headlights keep burning out

  1. #11
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    My 08 was burning bulbs from over charging,The voltage reg. was the problem ,The simplest way to know is check voltage at battery while running, mine was way up around 16. I changed reg. and problem solved.

  2. #12
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    Hey Lando,
    Having the same issue with blown head lights and the hesitation, choking on acceleration.
    Would you suggest changing the battery first then if the problem persist looking in the the Volt Reg?

  3. #13
    I've seen this a few times on a few different makes of bikes, It's usually the rectifier or voltage regulator or whatever you want to call it

  4. #14
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Lando isn't around anymore since this thread is 4 years old, but no worries you should check the charging system first since it's suspect with the headlights burning out often.

    Put the free voltmeter you got with a coupon from Harbor Freight tools on the battery terminals. Now is a good time to make sure they aren't loose or corroded underneath the terminals. You should have more than 12.5V at rest.

    Now crank the engine, you should have more than 9.6V

    Now rev the engine to 2500 rpm. You should have close to 14.7 volts. Any more than that and you need a new voltage regulator.

    You left zero info about your bike so the usual check for hesitation involve intake leaks or a air horn gasket out of place (especially if someones removed the bottom of the airbox cover recently). Both things are easy to search on here.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    I had the same issue on my 08 , it was the VR . ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Follow Cooter on this, It was spiky up to 15 with the volts, when it peaked it cooked the bulbs.

  6. #16
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    Thanks Cooter & SilverRider,

    The Bike is a 2007 XB12S, 13k miles, recently purchased from the original owner.
    One bulb was out when purchased, the other went out 500 miles down the road.
    Replaced both bulbs with H7 Philips Vision 3 Stars(30% more light) > they went out within days.

    I did the battery Voltage - Results
    12.66 @ rest > 14.4-.6 at idle > remains the same/Drop to high 13's at rev.

    1. Could a this be the VR or do you think a bad cell in the battery.
    Saw from Lando, the bulbs plus the hesitation could be a sign of a bad battery.
    2. Is there a good brand/Model of bulbs that I should be using?


    Thanks again for all the insight and help.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    Here is one more option , I did on my XB it cost less than a VR and you get much better lights. https://www.xenonhids.com/low-beam-h...FQ6dfgodZJ4MDA

  8. #18
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    The only problem I see is, your voltage goes down when you rev up the engine ? It should go up !

  9. #19
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    I did the battery Voltage - Results
    12.66 @ rest > 14.4-.6 at idle > remains the same/Drop to high 13's at rev.

    1. Could a this be the VR or do you think a bad cell in the battery.


    CONTRARY to popular opinion...electrons/current flow on a negative ground vehicle is from all negative side terminals to the positive battery terminal. that is the flow direction. see step #3 below which is critical. it's also crucial that you establish a good known ground between the VR and the bike itself. enhances charging and extends the life of the VR dramatically.

    your voltage output at idle is the indication something askew: it's way too high! typically a healthy XB will barely see 13 volts @ 1000rpm curb idle speed. running "down the highway" @ 3000rpm with a dying or sub-standard battery you may briefly see 14.6 volts but that reading is a bulb-killer and relay heater. do this:
    1-if you have some POS chinese battery installed trash it and buy quality such as an ETX-14 Deka or Big Crank and install.
    2-if presently a decent battery installed then fully charge with a quality charger and have it load tested
    3-check your grounds!!! they are: negative cable to frame....harness to frame same area....braided motor to frame under airbox base plate at dog-bone mount....front of bike at either steering neck or triple clamp pinch bolt.
    4. after thoroughly following my steps above if you still see similar volt readings as before replace the VR. it's finished.
    i would also replace the "battery" fuse in the fusebox if replacing the VR. it's 10 cents.


    Last edited by user_deleted; 06-01-2017 at 01:13 PM.

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