All balls i got mine off Ebay i think it was only like $25 link
Leaving Sunday to ride from Pa to Fl. Noticed today I have a leaking fork seal.
Where's a good place to order seals and what's average cost?
All balls i got mine off Ebay i think it was only like $25 link
you may want to look into buying new bushings to go along with the seals. the teflon wears off of them. they arent too much. check out americansportbike.com or the dealer will probably have similar prices.
I'll send you all the parts you need to rebuild the forks if you want, at a good price. Or you can pick them up in FL if you're here anyway(I'm in Orlando).
I have brand new in packaging:
oil seals
dust seals
guide bushings
slide bushings
I think I also have the retaining clips
I'll sell to you for cheaper than buying new. All my parts are from buell. Oh and they are off an 05 which IIRC is 43mm.
alien: if you've never replaced fork seals on these cartridge forks and want to do it quickly and correctly....get someone with experience to help you as clearly you're pressed for time. and once they start to leak it worsens rapidly in most cases. you can do the "wipe and ride" thing if on the left fork but if on the right will saturate the fork leg, caliper, rotor and pads if left unrepaired.
I can attest to this. I rode for a year with leaking forks and my front brake became relatively useless. It worked normally under light pressure, but when you hit it hard it just faded. When I finally had the forks rebuilt, I also sanded the caliper and put new pads on, and getting used to a working brake was really weird. It was like hitting a wall every time I pulled the lever. I had to panic stop on the first ride I did with the new brake and ended up doing a stoppie by accident, and stopped short by about 20ft of where I thought I was going to stop.but if on the right will saturate the fork leg, caliper, rotor and pads if left unrepaired.
There is some pics to help you
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...tml?1188735029
Don't you need a special tool to pound out the old seal and press the new one home? I always figured that's something I'd let the dealer do since I've been known to screw those kind of things up and have to pay twice as much to fix the damage.
steve; with the cartridge left intact you grab the lower leg which is the tube, hold the slider which is the large upper portion that bolts into the triple clamps...give them a tug and the components come apart. this is after removing the lower allen bolt. the bushings and seals come right out. putting it all back together requires either a home-made or store bought seal driver...or protective tape, a punch, a small hammer and incredible hand and eye coordination.
if just doing seals and bushings id leave the lower allen bolt in place. no need to remove the damper rod assemblythis is after removing the lower allen bolt