Reply With QuoteLeak completely gone!
So I saw the beginnings of what I thought was gonna be an ordeal on the proverbial right side fork leaking oil. Had a pretty good flow when I got home from a 70 miler.
Did some research, got me a Seal Mate, then made my own, loosened and lowered the fork dust covers on both sides, poked and prodded and cleaned up a shetload of debris, pumped em some 10 different times cleaning up the residual fork oil and finally after they were both spotless, I took a syringe, filled it half way with Lucas Synthetic Oil based Power Steering Leak Seal (http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=28&catid=9&loc=show&headTi tle=%20-%20Lucas%20Power%20Steering%20Stop%20Leak), shot some up and under the main seal on both sides and rubbed a tad bit just below the main seal on the forks, replaced the dust covers and went off on a 40 miler to see if it worked.
Damn right it worked. Saved me some personal time and headache in having to take em apart and replace em.
Will report back after a couple more long jaunts. But I have a good feeling the leak is gone as the cleaning and then the application of the Lucas Leak Seal will have done the trick.
Seems this is a good cure for what many have stated they ultimately took the forks apart and replaced what most likely were perfectly good main fork seals.
Leak completely gone!
for now, but I think you will find it is only a temp fix, most times when the seals go bad in the forks is because the bushings are worn and causing a loose fit, the bushings are allowing the leg to move side to side more than the seal can flex
Leak completely gone!
Actually my local Harley, Buell, Vincent, Norton etc Master Guru who has been at this mech game for over 40 something years now on various V-Twins, rec I do the process I noted here. He passed onto me that most times, folks never think about the fact that if you do not periodically clean under the initial fork seals, rid the grime and brake dust from actual seal point, it breaks the seal process and allows for a build up which in turn creates the slightest of openings.the bushings are allowing the leg to move side to side more than the seal can flex
He also shared with me that the Showa's that Eric insisted be implemented in the latter model rigs, are beefier and more durable than the standard Harley and older model Buells. He was a cert'd Buell Mech back in the 90's and early 20's for over 14 years. He of course added that the right seal will ALWAYS leak first from the brake dust that can and will accumulate from exactly the same spot that my leak initiated from. He is the one that also mentioned applying either an ATF or Power Steering Leak Seal additive to the area after it is well cleaned out via the Seal Mate or Feeler Gauge process.
He assured me that the seal rejuvenation/expanding ingredients in most of the products out there, actually work. In many cases the bottom exterior portion of the lower right seal gets dried out from the brake dust etc and he has been using this process for well over 15 years now with very good percentage of long lasting fixes. He insisted that it must be done at least every 90 to 120 days if the rig is ridden on a daily basis. He finally added that the HD Dealership will never tell you this very simple process nor secret. Instead, they will take upwards of 6-8 hours of Labor time and parts to boot. $3-500 for something that is as simple as this periodic maintenance procedure.
BTW: The local Honda/Yamaha Dirt Bike ATV Dealership Owner/Mech concurred 100% with this process. He sees this issue almost on a daily basis and is one of the few HONEST dudes out there that shares this process with his clientele.
I guess it pays to live a small town where pretty much everyone knows one another and ya can't get away with ripping off the clientele and expect to keep em coming back.
I will keep ya all updated on how it all keeps working or if it fails.
rpbuell: that motion-pro tool you mentioned actually is pretty handy if you have the patience to use it correctly and clean the inner seal lip which obviously you do. adding the "seal-swell-softener" fluid is old mechanic's trick. i like what you did.
So far so good. Just a tinge of a very thin ring periodically but nothing as bad as the original sighting some two weeks ago. Been riding the rig every day (30 mile RT) to work.
She is coming up on the 20K Fork Service.
I have done all the Service req'd after the Warranty Period expired so I am planning on doing this one myself as well. I will order the bushings, seals etc for both from AL this week and figured I may as well change them out since I got em apart. Done regular Showa's in the past and fear no evil in doing these. Got the compression tool/s ordered and coming from Traxxiondynamics, of course have the manual and have watched this series of vids (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5KxxB33rHQ) so it all seems very simple and will save me a bundle.
The High Dollar dealership 200 miles south of me wants something in the ballpark of $4-500 smackers if I deliver the arms. $6-700 if I give them the rig. Fk that!
In the mean time, seems this periodic remedy may save many out there some future grief if they apply this to their monthly maintenance routine. I know I will.
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