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Thread: How to remove your xbr motor

  1. #1
    Senior Member squidbuellie's Avatar
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    I have seen a lot of members asking how to remove their motors in the last few months.
    So since I had some extra time I am going to do a dyi with pictures on how to remove your firebolt motor.
    All in all it should only take you 1 to 1 1/2 hours from beginning to end.

    Remove seat and battery


    Remove the airbox


    Remove the tank vent line


    Remove the airbox base plate


    Push the head breathers lines and velocity stack through the base plate then remove the air intake sensor


    Remove the coil wire


    Remove the O2 sensor


    Remove the head temp switch


    Take a screwdriver or needle nose pliers to remove the wire harness plug


    Take apart the throttle housing and disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle tube


    I just slide the throttle tube back on


    Remove the throttle cables off of the throttle body with bent nose pliers


    Remove the top motor mount


    Remove the clutch cable from the clutch pirch

  2. #2
    Senior Member squidbuellie's Avatar
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    Remove the left side scoop


    Remove the torques that holds the clutch cable to the front motor mount


    Remove the bolts to the cross brace



    Remove the bolts from the oil cooler



    Remove the right side scoop


    Remove the bolt that holds the cross brace


    Remove the right side rider set


    Remove the belt cover


    Remove the bottom motor mount


    Cut the zip ties that hold the wire together


    Remove the oil sending light wire

  3. #3
    Senior Member squidbuellie's Avatar
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    Spread the wires apart


    Then disconnect all the wires "except" this one


    Then use a 12mm wrench to remove the nut off the starter


    Then if you have big hands like me then reach under the right side and disconnect the tps sensor and the fuel injectors


    The bike that I'm using as a demo is a 2003 so it has the kickstand kill switch. So you have to cut a zip tie and feed the wire from the left side of the bike over to the right side


    Remove the rear brake line holder


    Remove the rear brake caliper

  4. #4
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    Dude, YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!

    Not that i need to remove mine, but I know this will help tons of people, and I may require it one day!

  5. #5
    Senior Member thrstrmech's Avatar
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    I did my engine removal almost exactly like pictured, took an 1-1/2 to do jumping back and forth through the manual, also using pics that were posted when I had asked prior to doing it.

    thanks a mil squid for that and others for your guidance

    ^+1

  6. #6
    Senior Member squidbuellie's Avatar
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    Zip tie the caliper to the rear passenger pegs. I like to put the two bolts back into the caliper



    Stick a jack under the muffler (stock) if you do not have a stock pipe you will have to remove your pipe and stick the jack under the motor. Raise the jack up just enough to support the motor


    Remove the nut from the bottom of the shock. Do Not Remove the bolt.


    Break loose the top shock bolt. Do No Remove


    Remove the bottom motor mount


    Now here is a little tricky part, you want to raise or lower your jack under to take the pressure off of the rear shock

    Then you should be able to remove the top shock bolt with ease and with the top bolt out the shock should look like this


    Then slide the bottom bolt out of the shock


    Then remove the fan


    Remove the harness clip with a screwdriver or needle nose pliers


    Swing the tranny vent line out of the way


    Disconnect the fuel line and zip tie a bag on it


    Remove the front motor bolt


    Put the top bolt back into the shock to hold it in place


    I do this by myself, but it would be easier if you have help. Hold the bars strait with your left hand and with your right arm lift the tail up, to we're you can see the top of the head


    Then feed or make sure the tranny vent line is not hung up on anything

  7. #7
    Senior Member squidbuellie's Avatar
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    Then make sure the clutch cable is clear


    Then wheel barrow the frame over the motor and you should have something like this




    When all is said and done you should have one or two zip lock bags with some nuts and bolts, and some big take off parts


    I also forgot to add the you want to zip tie the rider set to the right rear passenger rider set and if you have the stock muffler you want to remove the chin fairing.


    Hopefully this will help some of you guys out, and as i said before it should only take you about one to one and a half hours to do it. There is no real big differences between the xb9 and xb12 except the exhaust valve cable.

    Later on this week ill try to do a quick write up, on how to put it all back together again.

  8. #8
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    What a guy. thanks a million Alex.

  9. #9
    Senior Member squidbuellie's Avatar
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    Here are some side notes....
    If you are just doing top end work, you can bye pass removing the oil cooler.
    But if your going to do a lot of motor work it's much easier to break the oil cooler loose so your not fighting it while its rocking back and forth.

    Also drain the oil first if your going to crack the cases. You will also want to break loose the axle bolt for the rear rim.
    With the motor out you can lower the jack down a bit and pull the rear axle and the belt will be real loose.
    I like to leave the rear swing arm on to help balance the motor.

    And if you don't have a motorcycle rear stand. You can do it on the kickstand, but you will need help to wheel barrow the motor because you are not lifting the frame strait up and down.

    Good luck....

    : I forgot to add if you still have the charcoal canister you will have a vacuum line on the right side of the thottle body that you will have to disconnect.

    Also here is how the motor sits

  10. #10
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    Rep!

    Thanks for the writeup, sticky?



    :already done...



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