Def the cam position sensor. Cause its the only thing that tells the ecm the position of the piston and when to fire the plugs. Check the wires to it and then do a resistance test with it unpluged.
Did the second guy even read the OP?
Def the cam position sensor. Cause its the only thing that tells the ecm the position of the piston and when to fire the plugs. Check the wires to it and then do a resistance test with it unpluged.
I set the static timing on the bike and put her back together. Started and she died, started died, burped and back fired, started and died. I rechecked the static timing and it was off again. The cam sensor is bad.
So I finally got a code for the cam position sensor. I changed it out and same problem. Idles rough for a short time and dies. I disconnected the head temp sensor and waala she idles. Abit rough but she idles for 20 to 30 seconds and dies. I believe the head temp sensor is bad. The wire looks like it may have been shorting to the frame. I think this is it. The idle has been wonky for the last few weeks before she died. It would high idle at every stop. I did also find a intake leak so that may have been part of the problem. The bike would put way to much fuel to the motor. I had extra fuel on the intake and the exhaust. She would backfire and fart from both ends.
So for a recap. I changed the plugs to NGK9, changed the coil, changed the wires, changed the cam position sensor, fixed the intake leak. The problem seems to be the Head temp sensor. Hopefully this fixes her my fingers are crossed.
So I got it to idle but it is still wonky. I replaced the head temp sensor. It would not idle and then tons of smoke and a fast idle for thirty seconds and I turned her off. I think the smoke is from the left over seafoam additive I used to clean the inards. I am going to start from scratch tonight. Pull the intake manifold, repull the plugs, check the injectors for fuel flow, check for spark. She idles but real rough now. I have checked the static timing and it seems right but the procedure is somewhat confusing in the manual. I am pretty sure I have it right. I still get a high idle if I adjust the idle set screw at all. It jumps to 3000 rpm and stays awhile. I can adjust the idle down then it jumps between 800 to 1200 rpm. It always jumped around a little but this is more then normal. Something is not right. The battery is fully charged at 13.5 volts. When I start it it drops to 10 volts and jumps to 12.7 once it starts. ECM spy shows it charging.
If ur regulator is faulty, it could be sending incorrect signals to sensors and spiking the ecm. Looks like u've tested some parameters. Test ur elec system, batt, reg, stator, ecm. Might be a low voltage issue or something.
i had a simular situation... but mine was the intaske boot sucking up on the air box.....stupid me
I disconnect the new engine temp sensor and she idles. I plug her in and she dies?
Pulled the fuel pump and found a bad hose. I changed the fuel filter fram g3606 and put a new airteck e2061 fuel pump. Still it suffered. I did all the diagnostics all the way to the ecm. No luck all checked out. Like a idiot I did not RESET THE AFV to 100%. She runs nice now. I did find some bad stuff and she is purring like a paint shaker my Beast is back. All Hail Satan's Pony.
This is all amazing yet foreign information for me. I have an XB9R (which I just went down hard on) and I'm in the middle of replacing a lot of parts. What I noticed is mine really idles hard, burps when its cold, and the RPMs seem to stick around 2200 RPMs when Im coming down to a red light or even down shifting.
The Buell is stock, nothing done to it just yet. 31,000+ miles, new fuel pump and injectors.
Whats the next step? Plugs? fuel filter? mapping? cam sensor and temp sensor?
All of this knowledge intrigues me, and I just stumbled upon americansportbike.com, so im guessing ill be getting whatever parts I need from there.
Please someone help me get my bike to a smooth running Buell. Thank you!