How are volt meter's set up on cars from the factory? I know they don't go straight from the battery...
the only way of being accurate is going from battery with alittle on off switch to gauge. All other ways is basically going threw fuse box
How are volt meter's set up on cars from the factory? I know they don't go straight from the battery...
That's good to know, and it's also a sign that you are getting a reasonably accurate reading of post-regulator output from the alternator. You're in the range one would expect to see from a properly functioning charging system.With the bike running it was showing between 13.9 and 14.3 depending on rpm.
Now you're able to detect immediately, by watching for readings outside that range while the bike's running, if you have a fault.
I know from experience that you can ride a good distance before a malfunctioning charging system actually causes the bike to stop running.
I believe it comes of the altenater snrusnak so it only reads when it is running .On our bikes you could probably go off the voltage regulater it will only read when bike is running. you just have to find the right wire. By the way our bikes at idle should be putting out 14.3 to14.7 volts. (manual)
Very true, however, I am not sure about neil's gauge, but the one I purchased has a stated accuracy of +/-0.3V, meaning that even 13.9V, at idle, measured at a bulb in the gauge cluster, is probably still a good sign.By the way our bikes at idle shouldÂ* be putting out 14.3 to14.7 volts. (manual)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkfU5hpqw2Q
I can't figure out how to get the YouTube embed to work
I hooked up my extra gauge straight to the battery and the difference in voltage while the bike was running stayed at about 0.1v, that seems pretty reliable to me....
Im guessing this was when the bike was off? Youll still read the 12 when the bike it on but the battery will be fluctuating with the stator charging while moving. The gauge will supply a constant voltage to the gauge components while the battery voltage varies with charging.
This is a very nice mod but with the way it is hooked up it is not going to be very reliable. I would start probing the wires coming into the cluster for a hot line, then test that line with the bike running, then solder to that pin. That would give some more accuracy without running the wires out of the cluster.
Also a couple of pics...
Neil, any sense of what happens to the reading when the electrical system is fully loaded up with highbeam, brake, horn and other accessories?I hooked up my extra gauge straight to the battery and the difference in voltage while the bike was running stayed at about 0.1v, that seems pretty reliable to me....
Make sure and get some gas on your next ride, or you will be testing your walking shoes. :p
:)
I didn't really fool around with the horn and high beam while testing the gauge.Neil, any sense of what happens to the reading when the electrical system is fully loaded up with highbeam, brake, horn and other accessories?
Once this damn weather breaks... all I need is forecasted high of 50 degrees and I'm on it.Make sure and get some gas on your next ride, or you will be testing your walking shoes.