So do they run an oil line through all the model's exhaust brackets?
Seems crazy to have to drain the bike to remove the exhaust. Glad I didn't do my summer oil change yet.
you do not have to remove the exhaust to change the oil. My trick and its also on the diy vids too is to place aluminum foil over the exhaust and fold it into a channle to direct the oil into the pan. the only one that really hits the exhaust alot is the rear drain. The primary doesnt make a big mess and isnt too terrible. also use foil for the oil filter. it makes clean up a breeze. 1qt int eh primary 2.5 in the rest. filter change should take you total 30 mins. good luck
^ lol
Ah, I replaced my stock with a Drummer and had to do nothing of the sorts.
What exhaust system are you replacing the stock one with?
Just picked this off the "Drummer" site:
These instructions apply to all Buell XB12 models.
For XB9 models start at step #4.
1. Remove the Air box cover by removing the 4 T27 torx screws that hold it in place. Don’t lose the screws and plastic washers.
2. Loosen the lock nuts on the mechanical muffler valve cable and disconnect it from the servo motor. Leave the servomotor in place with its electrical wires connected.
3. Carefully work the mechanical cable past the engine to free it completely. You will have to cut some wire ties and then replace them later.
4. Remove the chin fairing by removing the 7 torx screws that hold it in place. Don't loose the plastic washers.
5. Loosen the rear axle pinch bolt on the underside of the swingarm.
6. Using the rear axle removal tool from the kit unscrew the rear axle 20 full turns. This loosens the drive belt tension.
7. Remove the front belt guard by removing the 3 torx screws that hold it in place. Don't loose the plastic washers.
8. Unscrew the 2 nuts that retain the belt tensioner and pull the tensioner off of its studs. The studs are a close fit on the holes in the tensioner so be sure to pull off in a straight even manner. Don't try to pry it off. If it sticks then push it back on all the way and try again to pull it off straight.
9. Loosen the torcon clamp on the muffler's inlet.
10. Loosen and remove the front band clamp and the two rear band clamps that hold the muffler to the engine.
11. Work the muffler off of the header by twisting slightly and you are done.
http://www.kdfab.com/mufflerremoval.htm
This is exactly what I did when I replaced my stock rig.
Never touched the oil line.
He is putting a jardine on, and yes you have to remove the oil line and rear exhaust mount. Sucks, majorly.
AH!
Can't you mount the Jardine onto the rear bracket/mount?
You can also use a cut off wheel and cut the center out of the bracket.
Pretty sure there was a few years of production where the oil line ran through the bracket, and others that didn't but i could be high.
I just removed everything but the line. Pulled the e-clip out of the line,pulled the line, plugged the hole with my finger. Then got the line out of the bracket and popped it back in. All while just having my finger plug the hole. Lost about a Tbs. or 2 of oil. Also remember to use the quick connect function of the oil line. Don't un-thread the fitting. Its just more work.
What year and model do you have?
When I installed my Hawk (09 XB12s) I just took off the pulley cover and chin fairing per Randy Hawk's advice. You should be able to access everything without loosening the drive belt etc. With a long ratchet extension you should be able to reach the bolts. Hit them with some PB blaster though, they can b a bitch to get off.
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