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Thread: DIY Fuel pump fix. Cheaper than replacement from HD

  1. #1
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    So I am taking this "oppurtunity" of my misfortune to do a write up on the 2003 v6 mustang fuel pump fix for the XB's. I didn't discover this, just doing a write up of it(since I haven't seen a thorough one). I wish I could I could do this in a more organized fashion, but I'm stressed, busy, out of time, out of money, drinking, and high on gas fumes....

    Here's what my fuel pump was sounding like. It normally had the high pitched constant whine. After this issue today it had this clicking/knocking/gurgling noise. When running the diagnostics in ecmspy it starts out this way then transitions to a high pitch whine(although not as normal sounding as it usually is).

    http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/sn...tml?sort=3&o=0

    Long story short, my fuel pump used to have a high pitched "whine" and now has a clicking/gurgling sound. The bike died today when I let off the gas coasting through a low speed turn to my neighborhood. It basically started right back up(but wouldn't idle). So with the help of this forum, here is what I did(actually I'm not done, but in progress):

    Bought this 2003 v6 mustang fuel pump kit:

    Part Number: E2366 (~$110.00)

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...0626_621219_0_

    It is nearly identical to the oem fuel pump. I pulled the bike apart and the oem pump is basically identical to this mustang pump except the strainer/sock thing is different(but it shouldn't make any difference).

    I checked the wires, all seem good, no chafing or anything. While I'm in there I also decided to replace the fuel filter which is part number FF3330DL from autozone (~$6.00).

    FYI, the HD dealer wanted ~$370.00 and 10-15 days to get the oem fuel pump assembly.

    The only thing I wish I could get is replacement o rings(the two that seal the pump housing to the frame), but that's ok, I'll reuse them(at least for now).

    I'm going to post a bunch of pictures without much text, it's fairly self explanatory. In a nut shell, here was the process:

    Jack up bike(I use the muffler jack points)
    Remove rear wheel(caliper, belt, etc)
    Remove rear shock/spring bolt
    Lower swingarm as far as possible
    (You should be able to do this stuff if you are attempting this job.....use the service manual if need be)
    Drain fuel via drain plug on pump housing(I covered the area with tin foil to keep the fuel off the swingarm)
    Unbolt fuel line
    Unbolt 4 bolts holding pump housing to frame
    Use a screwdriver or something to pry the housing out of the frame
    It is next to impossible to slip the pump out without removing the swingarm, but it IS possible. I nearly had to pry it out but got it out without damage
    Once the housing is out, inspect all the wires for shaffing/etc, remove the pump(just slides out). You do have to cut a crimped on clamp to remove the flex hose to the pump. I am replacing with a SS hose clamp(3/8", screw on type). Also, I am replacing the filter which is in there. Also, I am doing a general clean up.
    The only thing I'm not doing(due to time/etc) is not replacing the o rings which I wish I could. But I can't find them local and fast so oh well. There are 2 large (roughly 3" or just lightly over) o rings that go around the housing that seal to the frame, and two small o rings that go where the fuel line connects(they are slightly different sizes, BTW).

    Also, the fuel pump kit comes with two different sizes strainers/sock things. I plan to use the larger one(if possible).

    Pictures.....













    Video of diagnosticsClick

  2. #2
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  4. #4
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    Also forgot to mention the ground screw(4th picture) I think was my actual issue. I don't even know if my pump is bad but I'm replacing it anyway. I noticed that the ground screw was slightly loose and the ground wires were able to be moved by hand so I'm wondering if that was my issue, or if it caused the pump to burn up. In any case, I'll apply some thread lock to that screw now. I'm not sure if the fuel will eat up the thread lock...

  5. #5
    Senior Member FlaXB9R's Avatar
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    Steelers shirt. That's about all its good for is a Rag!

    You have a local Ace? Take the O rings in there and they should have a match.Even have someone to find it for you They have several drawers of O rings (at least at my local Ace so assuming all do).

    Edit: Nice write up by the way

  6. #6
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    I may try ACE tomorrow on my way home. Unfortunately when it rains it pours. I really have no time or money for this crap right now. I'll try to see if they have the o rings though, they will be cheap. If they don't then I will reuse...

    EDIT: F you steelers rock. Notice it says CHAMPIONS

  7. #7
    Senior Member FlaXB9R's Avatar
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    they will be cheap
    Yep I've got O rings there for the hydraulic pumps on my Zero Turn a couple times. Also not only are they cheap they're super helpful there too.



    EDIT: F you steelers rock.* Notice it says CHAMPIONS

  8. #8
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    EDIT: F you steelers rock. Notice it says CHAMPIONS
    We will see how they do this year. I am hoping for the best!

    Also great write up!

  9. #9
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    I hope I don't ever have to do this, but this info is great!
    Many Thanks.

  10. #10
    Senior Member rchuff's Avatar
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    snrusnak that pump was totally on it's way out , if a fuel pump starts to make a funny noise that's the first sign that it is going ,good call to replace now it would suck if it went out on the dragon . if you have a harbor freight near you they have oil+gas o-ring (come with all sizes ) in a little plastic box I have them and work great.



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