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Thread: I have to drain my gas tank

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  1. #1
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    Ok I have to get rid of all the fuel in my bike and just letting it run isn't the best option for the bike right now. Anyone know where the fuel line runs from/to and whether it's feasible to drain it that way or not?

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    Quote Originally Posted by FIDOSOL View Post
    Ok I have to get rid of all the fuel in my bike and just letting it run isn't the best option for the bike right now. Anyone know where the fuel line runs from/to and whether it's feasible to drain it that way or not?
    Release fuel line pressure according service manual, disconnect fuel line from the intake fuel ramp, guide the fuel line in the canister, connect fuel pump back, turn ignition key on and start the pump flipping the kill switch to drain the tank. You also can use BuellTooth dongle to activate the fuel pump.

  3. #3
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by X B View Post
    Release fuel line pressure according service manual, disconnect fuel line from the intake fuel ramp, guide the fuel line in the canister, connect fuel pump back, turn ignition key on and start the pump flipping the kill switch to drain the tank. You also can use BuellTooth dongle to activate the fuel pump.

    we know this is you TEABAG and we also know you're insane and a board troll. guess what? you're banned again. idiot!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    ^^^ XB, You are replying to a 10 yrs question ?? by now his fuel evaporated or turned to varnish.

    Fidosol ,He has not been on the board since 05-12-2012
    Last edited by Silverrider; 12-18-2018 at 02:54 AM.

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    Must be a Cali thing!

  6. #6
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    Hey peeps,

    My 08 Uly decided to play hard to get after being stored in an outdoor shed all winter (Vermont). I am going to drain old fuel and replace spark plugs, but here's the thing. The bike won't start - it cranks and then either the exchaust goes KABOOM or nothing at all happens. This makes starting the bike till it stalls due to the lack of gas a problem.

    I disconnected the fuel pump connector. Without killing myself, how do I make sure there is no high pressure gas in the system? Is it safe to remove the drain plug at this point? Do I need to remove all 4 allen bolts and the whole entire plate?

    Thanks,

    Tolson

  7. #7
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    it cranks and then either the exchaust goes KABOOM or nothing at all happens.
    classic fouled plugs. replace with NGK DCPR8EIX


    Without killing myself, how do I make sure there is no high pressure gas in the system?
    there isn't.


    Is it safe to remove the drain plug at this point?
    YES. leave gas cap ON....then remove drain plug. after flow starts remove cap to speed fuel flow.

    Do I need to remove all 4 allen bolts and the whole entire plate?
    YES. and unplug pump wiring harness.

  8. #8
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    Thank you, lunaticfringe - the old plugs were definitely messed up, as was the entire process of their removal.

    Will replace them tomorrow and hopefully that's that.


  9. #9
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tolson View Post
    Thank you, lunaticfringe - the old plugs were definitely messed up, as was the entire process of their removal.

    Will replace them tomorrow and hopefully that's that.
    yes sir my pleasure. NOTE THIS: though the service manual states otherwise the trick to easy plug installation is to use a simple 5/8th inch box wrench for the front plug after removing the left front factory air intake scoop. then for the rear plug simply remove airbox cover....airbox inner lid(5 plastic snaps)...air filter....inner airbox base(4 torx-pink loctite from factory). takes total of 5 minutes and with those simple components removed and set aside you can now access quite easily the coil, plug wires, and the rear plug. put a small dab of anti-seize on each plug thread...check plug gap...and install the rear one with a 3/8th drive spark plug socket, swivel, and long extension. ALSO STRONGLY SUGGEST starting each plug by hand. that way it's impossible to cross-thread them and totally bitch up the plug threads....which sadly many have done. i gap to .037....and torque to 15 ft. lbs
    Last edited by lunaticfringe; 04-03-2019 at 10:35 PM.

  10. #10
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    Nice, thank you for responding and I appreciate plug-specific recos. I have an owners' manual so I followed their steps before I posted here for the first time. The front plug removal was the same as you described - I used a combination of the official instructions, a Youtube video, and a few choicest words - but pretty close to what you said. The rear plug is a piece of work for sure - a lot of hardware in the way and I have short stubby fingers. New plugs are going in tomorrow, I have a few 12 oz. coolant bottles ready.

    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    yes sir my pleasure. NOTE THIS: though the service manual states otherwise the trick to easy plug installation is to use a simple 5/8th inch box wrench for the front plug after removing the left front factory air intake scoop. then for the rear plug simply remove airbox cover....airbox inner lid(5 plastic snaps)...air filter....inner airbox base(4 torx-pink loctite from factory). takes total of 5 minutes and with those simple components removed and set aside you can now access quite easily the coil, plug wires, and the rear plug. put a small dab of anti-seize on each plug thread...check plug gap...and install the rear one with a 3/8th drive spark plug socket, swivel, and long extension. ALSO STRONGLY SUGGEST starting each plug by hand. that way it's impossible to cross-thread them and totally bitch up the plug threads....which sadly many have done. i gap to .037....and torque to 15 ft. lbs

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