Reply With QuoteJust to fill in a bit of info, we flashed everything back to stock before doing any tuning to make sure it wasn't an EEPROM issue that was preventing the bike from running. Flashing back to stock didn't fix anything.
A little back story:
Tore the bike down and installed a Micron exhaust, ASB air box delete, put in new NGK iridium plugs. Put everything back together and bike started right up no problem. Started working with Max (with his Tuniversity) and bike would not start. It would crank and crank but would never fire up. Had my battery, that's always on a tender, checked and it is fine. He told me to check my plugs. I pulled the plugs and they looked a little black, but didn't look fouled. Checked gap, and they were gapped just a little short. I gapped them to .035 inch, reinstalled, buttoned bike back up, and it fired right up first try.
Started The Tuniversity's top tuning package. Went for my first data log and the bike ran fine. Went to tune from the first log and no data would transfer to TunerPro. Max told me to take a shorter ride and log and come back and see if it got anything. Gave the computer a fresh restart and went for my ride. I was getting ready to head back for home and the bike just felt like it lost all power (from the motor). Twisted the throttle, nothing. Came to a stop and the bike died. Hit the starter switch and it fired right back up. Continued my ride home and just around the next corner, same thing. Bike looses power, nothing when I give it gas, come to stop and it dies. (It did log that time too btw). Anyways, got the bike hauled home, checked plugs again, they looked better than the last time I had them out. I still replaced with 2 brand new plugs, correctly gapped, reinstalled, and the same thing -- it would crank and crank but would never sound like it was going to even try to start. Thought maybe I didn't get plug wires fully seated (its hard to get my hands around the motor and the frame to the plugs). Pulled the wires put them back on, heard them click when they fully seated. Went to start, crank/crank/crank no startup.
Now to the question at hand. Went through every wire we could get to without rotating the engine. They were all were connected well. Went to fire up the bike and it fired right up. Killed it, put everything back on completely, thinking maybe it was just a loose connection to the coil (it was sitting at little bit of a weird angle). Hit the starter and it started but then died shortly after. So when the bike is going through its start up stuff we heard a weird buzzing coming from up around the air box (I was hearing this and thought it sounded odd when I was going through the fiasco of replacing plugs after I got stranded on my ride). Took everything back off and pin pointed the sound coming from the IAC as it was running through the run cycle.
I took a video of it so you can hear what it is sounding like:
It does not sound good when running through the cycle. The bike is 2009 with 3,000 original miles. Does it sound like it has gone bad and I need to replace? Just need a cleaning? Anyone ran into this same problem?
If it does need replaced is there a cross referenced part you can pick up at an auto parts store or would I need to order from the dreaded HD stealership?
Thanks for any help.
Just to fill in a bit of info, we flashed everything back to stock before doing any tuning to make sure it wasn't an EEPROM issue that was preventing the bike from running. Flashing back to stock didn't fix anything.
I don't have much insite on diagnosing ur issue but if u wanna send me a pic of all the #'s or text me the numbers off ur iac I could have our parts guys @ work try to cross reference it.
Thanks for the input with the parts I left out Max.Originally Posted by theoctopus
I don't have a parts book for the part number. On the IAC itself it says:
SONCEBOZ
Swiss Made
90-518
1928
Few of my friends ride xb's..long story short if its an EBR race ecm most likely you need a new ECM.You have to habe a special tunner program for EBR ECMs. If you have a stock ecm do a tips reset and start from scratch by the manual! Lol good luck.
I hope I'm not sending you on a wild goose chase.
This info may or may not help.
I'll give cross referencing it a shot today. wouldn't it still run if you actually did the throttle by hand even if the IAC was bad?
Few of my friends ride xb's..long story short if its an EBR race ecm most likely you need a new ECM.You have to habe a special tunner program for EBR ECMs. If you have a stock ecm do a tips reset and start from scratch by the manual! Lol good luck.
I hope I'm not sending you on a wild goose chase.
This info may or may not help.
Tried that lol
More or less, we want to know if someone else has had this issue and if they just replaced it or what?
Not sure. All I know is it won't start, we've checked all the connections, and got it to fire twice last night until we buttoned it back up and it wouldnt start again. Followed the weird buzz and sound like something is shorting out and it is this actuator that is making weird sounds as the bike is cycling before you try to kick it on. Tried to open throttle and it still won't start. Have reset the TPS a few different times.
Found the part number from a thread on BadWeb: P0282.5AA
And can get it from Surdyke HD - Idle Air Control Actuator for $155. Pricey little piece to replace for a bike with less than 3K miles. :\
yeah that's normal for a Harley parts hopefully I can cross it to a Ford or GM part.
I wonder if it's may be insufficient fuel pressure from the pump or possibly a short somewhere else that is causing the fuel pump and the iaC to not cycle properly upon startup because there is insufficient voltage ? I'm just sort of spitballing here. I guess you could check for correct voltage at every part that is required for startup.
UPDATE
OK, new IAC came in today. Installed it, tried to start and it just cranked like before but no start up. Turned key and run switch off and back on and it ran through its cycle and tried it a couple more times. No start.
Went back to the ignition coil plug and made sure it was seated tight again. Key, run switch, start button and fired right up. Shut it off, went and geared up and took it for a ride. I kept it just around my neighborhood so I could push it home if it died on me again. Went about a mile, mile and half and I felt it start to stutter and start to loose power again. Switched lanes and was trying to get to the parking lot I was near and it fired right back up again. Took the next turn that took me back into the neighborhood I live in and I sat at red light idling just fine. Took off fine, but got about 100 yards from the light and it died completely and would not start. Pushed it back home, took the air box cover off and tried messing with the coil plug again and it fired up for a few seconds and died. Tried it a few more times and it sounded like it was trying to start but would just die immediately.
Any ideas from here? Can we test the wiring harness going into the coil or the coil itself? Coil going bad? Am I going to need to replace the harness itself for this one little plug? I really don't want to tear the bike down again. Every time since we got it to fire up again (after checking and changing plugs before) we have messed with that plug and it has fired up after messing with that.
The IAC isn't making the same weird noises the old one was. I don't know what was up with it or if it even remotely had anything to do with this.
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