Reply With QuoteReally? Anyone going to weigh in on this?
Hello all,
I have a question about the "mainshaft locknut wrench" tool (part #: HD-94660-37B). I have read of many folks simply using a 1-7/8" socket to remove the nut, so what is "special" about the HD tool? It seems to just be a longer socket that spaces the breaker bar (or impact wrench, whatever is used to turn the socket) out from the bike. In some images I have seen that there is a second part to the tool used to center the socket, but I have also read about it being used without. So, what gives? Is this tool needed, or can I just use a standard 1-7/8" impact socket, so long as I'm careful about keeping it aligned with the mainshaft? My engine is out of the bike, btw, so access to the nut is not an issue for me. While we're at it, any thoughts on the "sprocket holding tool" (part #: B-45659)? I've seen people make it with a wedge of wood and a piece of old belt, and also with a piece of modified wrench. I don't have any old belt, and I'm not too keen on the modified-wrench method, because it seems too easy to gouge the sprocket, making it cut the belt after some riding. Thanks for any help / wisdom, and I hope all is well in your neck o' the woods.
John
Really? Anyone going to weigh in on this?
You can make your own "sprocket holding tool". I made mine from aluminum so it wouldn't gouge anything.
I'm not familiar with the socket.
When we did my friend did his primary swap we just used a standard socket. As far as the sprocket holding tool we used a piece of aluminum stock(so we didn't break any gear teeth)
yes. lh thread, btw.or can I just use a standard 1-7/8" impact socket,
The mainshaft/couuntershaft nuts are either left or right hand threaded. And around 150-200 ft lbs of torque to tighten them. So untightening them isn't easy sometimes. Those 2 nuts are the only 2 major ones I would worry about bending/stripping/side-loading/warping. To much work to fix if damaged. Sprocket holding tool is correct length between sprocket teeth to hold each sprocket in place properly. And kent-moore is licensed by them anyway lol. Those 2 shafts fail and ur sol.
bull****.
sprocket nut is lh thread, tq is 50 ft-lbs/65 Nm + 30-40°
07bolt is referring to the mainshaft nut (clutch pack) which is left hand thread, torque to 70-80 ft. lbs.and the engine sprocket nut (stator housing) which is right hand thread (standard), torque to 190-240 ft. lbs., both installed with Loctite 262
you can fabricate the locking tool for the engine sprocket and primary chain sprocket from 1-1/2" wide steel bar stock from Home depot, Lowesetc... bevel the ends and the overall length is 4-1/8"
the locking tool you're asking about holds/locks the transmission sprocket to allow removal of the sprocket nut which mounts at the same location as the rear screw for the sprocket cover
My "Engine" bolt was torqued on pretty good. I had HD do the my first stator/regulator install, and if they had the revised torque spec this is why I had to get the "Locking tool" from ASB. The engine bolt normal spec torque was 150-165 ft/lb and Al at ASB told me that it has been changed to 240 ft/lb, since the bolt has been known to back off. I could not get that bolt off with 2 of us trying it, but with the tool it came off with pretty quickly.
Cheers!
My Clutch Pack Bolt came off without issue and should be torqued to normal manual spec.
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