Reply With Quotewhat plugs are in it and how old are they?
I have a 04 xb 12r that sputters off idle. Warm or cold. I have breather and cAtch can. Swapped computer with a known good computer and problem stays exactly same. Tps reset was done with digital technician idle screw was adjusted out at same time. New tps and another reset and idle screw adjustment. All the basics are good. Please help if you know. It's embarrassing. P.S. Bike is perfect through rest of RPM range
what plugs are in it and how old are they?
I'm having the exact issue with the exact bike you have. I am lead to it being lean at idle and needing fuel added but l am not sure
I figured it out it is the amount of slop in the throttle cable before anything starts to happen. As in the throttle doesn't quite return to the same spot. If i can figure out how to fix in a normal way i will post it
Possible intake seals possible Spark Plugs. Run a 1/4 of the bottle of Seafoam from a full bottle and a Full fill up on your bike.. The Slight Sloppiness that some think is happening most likely the Throttle Cables are good UNLESS someone else messed with them at a time before. The ECM is Pre-programmed so the Small Things First. The Buell is supposed to have a slight bit of play in the Cables.
Could be the [Throttle Tube] is in need of Looking at. Inspection is of course is part of the process of finding the trouble. If it is a cable OR Throttle Tube then American Sportbike .com or Cycle Pirates may have what is needed. Inox Cable Lube is a good Lube for Cables so they work properly.Sometimes when cables don't get lubed they tend to stick or wear out quickly. Post up . Hope it is a easy fix.*Jimi
you can adjust the cables where they go into the throttle tube.
Make sure to check the Throttle tube for wear before adjusting. The actual proper way to take sloppiness out of the cables is to remove the Air Box cover.
THEN the outer cover holding the Air filter no matter which year so as to remove the Air Filter.
Start by twisting the Throttle and looking down in the Velocity Stack( Funnel Shaped). Watch the Action OR Movement first and the Throttle Tube also.
Now-.Remove the 4 [27] torx screws or bolts so as to get down underneath so as to look at Throttle Body. Linkage and cable assembly. You can Gently remove the Bottom plate assembly completely to make it easier to work Watch out for the IAT sensor and wiring plug underneath.
Take your 10mm wrench [depending on year] and loosen up one or three threads on the Top Throttle cable bracket only, then do the same with the bottom cable( return cable) now you can wiggle OR There is a clip( please PAY close attention) to it, pull up and outward towards the front of the engine DO NOT bend it! The Clip only slips in behind the one side of the nuts at the outer bracket and slips over the outside nuts going to the hook up at the throttle body..
The inner nuts going down to the cables make sure to look carefully at the amount of threads that is Left BEFORE you do any adjusting at ALL. [If] you do any adjusting up at the Throttle Tubes area see if that helps BEFORE you go through this adjusting method. OR you can really get it out of whack.
Count the Threads at the areas in need of adjusting first wright it down if need be just in case of an[ Opps] or something or working just here and there over a couple of days when time allows.
If it was me I would check the Throttle tube First THEN go from there. You can always just adjust the Throttle cable first (gives it Fuel) OR pulls the Throttle blade open.. Not too tight or you will make it rev too high possibly causing a serious problem, later on the 2008 plus bikes. Such as Transmission problems trying to get it to go in gear and so on. Look up your Idling RPMs and set it properly for your Engine. There are Manuals at the top of the page . Take your time. Good Luck. Jimi
Jimijeans- As always, thanks for another informative post.
To add to this: I want to emphasize the importance of maintaining the recommended amount of cable slack which Jimi touched on briefly at the end of his post. I've seen a few Buellers who tightened up their throttle cables, leaving no slack at all. It can give the feeling of having a more 'snappy' or 'crisp' throttle response. However, this also causes two problems:
1) It doesn't allow enough throttle slack to allow for turning of the handle bars, and can cause an unexpected rpm increase while turning the bars to left/right (definitely not a welcome surprise if you're in the middle of a turn).
2) If the throttle cables are adjusted the slightest bit too tight, the throttle plate may be prevented from closing completely as part of a TPS reset procedure, no matter how far out you adjust the idle screw. Result: Your TPS reset will never be accurately 'zeroed', defeating the purpose of the reset and potentially throwing off your maps. Your bike will run like crap and you'll perpetually chase your tail replacing parts and wasting time trying to correct the problem. In this scenario, you (or the person working on your bike) could perform the TPS reset a bajillion times and it will always and forever be miscalibrated.
If I'm helping a buddy out with a TPS reset, I always start by grabbing the throttle and feeling for a little bit of play. If it's tight, I always adjust the cables before I go any further.
Awesome wish i had learned this sooner, i won't forget it. thanks guys!
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