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Thread: Rear axle loosening

  1. #21
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Nice! Congrats!!!!

  2. #22
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    Well done Bob. That axle tool you built is nice to have on hand as it will also fit many BMW, Ducati, Suzuki and Kawasaki models.
    If you find that it appears twisted or slightly bent...replace with new. If it's serviceable but corroded like most are....I would media blast, clean, apply very light coating of grease, and re-use.

  3. #23
    Senior Member TheWood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett View Post
    Well done Bob. That axle tool you built is nice to have on hand as it will also fit many BMW, Ducati, Suzuki and Kawasaki models.
    If you find that it appears twisted or slightly bent...replace with new. If it's serviceable but corroded like most are....I would media blast, clean, apply very light coating of grease, and re-use.
    Thank you John. Its a tool I won't mind lending out if need be. My axle is in pretty good shape as it turns out(pun intended). My local bike shop guy has a nice glass bead blaster and has just recently cleaned up the muffler for my Uly, so I can paint. I think I'll take your advice and have him clean the axle up for me too. I have some Amsoil synthetic racing grease left over from my last wheel bearing pack on the sports car that I'll use for that "very light coat". Along with all of that, I've changed out my neutral switch I was having symptoms with, as well as installing new drive belt that I've been storing for a couple of years. Looking forward to spring!
    P.S. - Thank you to whoever it was that came up w/ the idea to turn down an old 5/8" socket for the neutral switch swap. Apparently needle nose vise grips also work, but didn't have on hand. Only took me a few minutes for the socket; and another new tool!

  4. #24
    OK the axel loosened farly easily after a night of soaking up PB (parts Blaster. On to the next, belt tensioner stuck with nuts removed
    Vheers,
    Warren

  5. #25
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooterman View Post
    OK the axel loosened farly easily after a night of soaking up PB (parts Blaster. On to the next, belt tensioner stuck with nuts removed
    Vheers,
    Warren

    Warren: Belt tensioner via corrosion welds itself to the engine case mounting studs as well as case itself. Night of PB Blaster or Kroil soaking. Rear wheel axle MUST be loosened precisely 21 turns...or wheel removed entirely....for belt to slip off tensioner pulley and tensioner assembly removed. Check pulley bearings while off and consider slight mod to lesson belt tension. Factory tension setting way too aggressive.

  6. #26
    Senior Member TheWood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett View Post
    consider slight mod to lesson belt tension. Factory tension setting way too aggressive.
    I recall seeing this mentioned on the forum before, but couldn't find a how-to on this. I know it involves enlarging the hole or holes on the bracket to allow it to rotate slightly to ease tension. But how much, what size bit, 1 hole or both, etc.? Link?

  7. #27
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    It's my personal remedy Bob, from many moons ago on here. I methodically remove approx 2MM of material from the top of this hole, allowing tensioner to rotate downward just a tad. Alleviates much of the ridiculously high amount of belt tension engineered into this piece.

    xb tensioner.jpg

  8. #28
    Senior Member TheWood's Avatar
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    Pictures worth many words, thanks. As I see it, you've even shown the apex spot of where to ream(elongate)the hole. I'm thinking an aluminum cutting bit (3/8") in the drillpress? When I recently installed my new belt, I realized how friecking tight it is as you say(bearing life). This is not directions for others; do so at your own risk as they say.



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