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Thread: ZTL2 brake upgrade on STT

  1. #11
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    iowkey, I used the nissin 19mm with the ZTL when I did my Lightning.Used a CRG shorty
    It's LowKey as in LowKeyPerformance.com and LowKeyComponents.com, both of which I have yet to do anything with... Haha anyway that nissin was my first choice but I'd like to try the 16mm non radial option as supposedly the levers interchange with a buell, which would be nice! Also not sure about the reservoir cup look but it's not a big deal. Would you try something different now that you've run that one or is it perfect feeling in your opinion? Thanks

    Thanks for the MC info. In the process of doing the upgrade to my XB.
    Been keeping this one under my hat until I decided to go with the new caliper/different MC setup, could save someone time and money, good deal! Complete take off ZTL2 front brake setup

  2. #12
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    lowkey, sorry can,t type.If you can get a complete unit, saves a lot of time.
    I would still go with the the nissin 19mm, switched to Lindal gold pads for better feel and went back to long CRG levers. For me this worked well because of problems with my right wrist and hand.
    A few others no here have gone to a radial master with the 6 pot with good results.
    Hope this helps.

  3. #13
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    The 1125 unit is a bolt on for the XB?? ... Genuine question ..

  4. #14
    Senior Member d_adams's Avatar
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    ^ Yes and no. The master cylinder will fit the bars, the caliper will fit the forks & rotor. The only issue I have is the brake line itself, the 1125 part is too short for my xb9 lightning with Pro-Taper bars. I figured I'd at least try the xb line, but with the bends at the banjo fittings, it's just not right. Roughly, it's 30" from the MC to the caliper if I follow the current mount location. I ordered some universal line and banjo fittings from the motorcycle superstore last night, ran about $75 or so to get new bolts, crush washers, banjo fittings and the line at the length I wanted. It's probably time to replace the xb9 stock line anyway, squeezing the lever makes the line move/flex quite a bit and no matter how much I've bled it out, it still goes to the bar. Bike stops just fine, but it's that whole flex and movement part that I don't like.
    I'll probably try to score a better MC later with a remote reservoir, but it's not something I absolutely must have right now.

  5. #15
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    The 1125 unit is a bolt on for the XB?? ... Genuine question ..
    Some, maybe all 2010 models came with the ZTL2 stock. From the pictures it looks like they used the line with the 45 degree bends in them that they've been using on previous years.

  6. #16
    Senior Member s0dhi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowkey
    Also still trying to decide what brake MC to go with. I'm still leaning to the Hayabusa (1997-2003) 16mm MC 5/8 but I have to keep the mirror mount on the clamp like our stock one is. I've found an aftermarket bracket that are for dirt bikes to mount a mirror off the clamp but they are for the clutch side. I won't know if it will work unless I buy the MC and measure the bolt clamp distance.
    If anyone knows a good option to use that will let me keep the mirror perch please let me know.
    What did you end up deciding with respect to the master cylinder? If you went with the Hayabusa part, do you happen to have a part number? I'm looking to start picking up some parts for a ZTL2 brake upgrade as well.

  7. #17
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    Update:

    So after sitting on this project for almost a year... I finely got around to picking up a master cylinder and odds and ends to get it done. I went with a 2005 Suzuki Hayabusa MC from eBay for $27.00.

    Suzuki Hayabusa MC: 5/8" bore - 1999-2007

    A few good reasons to go with this option is that it uses a 12mm banjo bolt so the stock brake line works, the brake light switch works to the stock wiring, and the stock Buell lever will work temporarily I say because there is about 1mm of play before the lever makes contact with the piston if you push the lever away from the bar. Stock handguards and hardware bolt right up. You will lose the mirror mount though.



    I ordered a matching set of shorty levers for this MC off eBay for another $27.00. To solve the mirror mount issue I scoured the internet looking for options, there are quite a few cheap mounts that take up bar space that go between the controls and the MC but I wanted to keep it clean and run the back half of the MC clamp with a 10mm mirror option. I remembered that this half of the clamp is included if you buy the 19mm radial Nissin MC that lots of people go with for the swap but good luck finding one for sale on its own... I tracked one down from a japan website here . There is a couple others that are advertised for enduro bikes such as moose racing but at $25.00 I didn't want to take a chance of it not fitting as I couldn't find any measurments for it. I kept searching and found that bikemaster sells one exactly like the Nissin one listed on the Japanese site but has elongated holes for mounting so it should for sure work and at $10.00 shipped from a US website I feel it is my best option.



    DRC option

    Moose Racing option

    silver enduro CNC option

    Bikemaster T-2 option

    While I did this upgrade I also ordered the EBR updated mounting hardware and took this time to sand he rotor so everything was fresh. One thing I want to share is my instructions were unclear if the old springs that go between the rotor and wheel need to be removed, I searched around and they DO need to be removed, only the brass washers should sit behind the rotor between the wheel. Make sure the rotor tab with the hole drilled in it is mounted in the spot where your valve stem comes out of your wheel for best weight balancing. (bottom right bolt in photo)



    Since I have the STT and the stock brake line is longer than most XB's I took a chance to reuse it instead of a custom one, as you see I routed it the same as stock with the banjos the same as well. I was able to get the length I needed by unbolting the grommet behind the faring and braking the bottom rubber grommet loose from the hose that mounts onto the lower triple. From the lower triple mount the brake line goes up and around the outside of the fork tube right up into the new MC with plenty of slack to spare. I plan to try it like this and check for issues before I cut off the clued on rubber from the brake line that would have mounted behind the fairing and then just glue the black shielding that is loose that runs between those two grommets.

  8. #18
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    s0dhi What did you end up deciding with respect to the master cylinder? If you went with the Hayabusa part, do you happen to have a part number? I'm looking to start picking up some parts for a ZTL2 brake upgrade as well.
    Sorry for the long delay here is the Hayabusa info.

    Suzuki OEM P/N: 5960024F00

  9. #19
    Senior Member s0dhi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowkey
    Sorry for the long delay here is the Hayabusa info.

    Suzuki OEM P/N: 5960024F00
    No worries. Thanks for the reply and part number.

  10. #20
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    Here is the stock ZTL lever at rest.



    Here it is if I push the lever out away from the grip showing the 1mm from piston.



    Here is the brake switch pushing the lever against the piston as seen in the first photo. (at normal rest)



    Here is how the original brake line hose sits, not to far out from the caliper.



    Rubber grommet that I broke loose from the brake line sitting about 1" off from where it was glued.



    Following it up to the MC



    A little more up and different view



    Here is the bend at the MC, it is much more out of the way than it looks in the picture.




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