Reply With QuoteLet the powdercoating guy know which holes and faces should be masked before sandblasting and powdercoating.
Planning on powder coating my bike. Was wanting some input from some people that might have had it done or does coating. I was going to have my wheels, frame, swingarm and some odd and end parts done. I was going to have the parts chemical dipped to remove all factory paint and powder coat. Is there some kind of coating in the XB frame/fuel tank like a regular steel tank? What about the oil residue left over in the swing arm? Will it get flushed out when dipped in chemical? I dug up some info like have the wheel lips blasted so the powder coat sticks better. They are polished from the factory and allows the powder coat to chip easier on the lips. Any general info, hints, or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Let the powdercoating guy know which holes and faces should be masked before sandblasting and powdercoating.
I was told by one place that they recommend me chemical dipping to remove everything. Said they didnt like blasting powder coat off aluminum. I have no idea, just going by what they said.
I gave my 240 rear wheel rim to the local powdercoat shop and they removed all paints by chemical dipping, then they sandblasted the rim, then they powdercoated the rim.
Sand blasting powdercoat off is a pain. I chemical strip everything and then do a quick and light beadblast. ... I would find something that plugs the fuel fill and oil. You do not want that stripper inside eother the swing arm or frame.
How did u plug the frame and swing arm pur pony? I was wondering about dipping and getting chemical in swing arm and frame. Didnt know if it would all be flushed out when they were done?
I have done a lot of powder coating on my build, thank god it's almost done. It's a bit of a pain to remove the old paint and powder coat but not to bad. For instance when I re powder coated my spring from yellow to flat black I started with aluminum oxide in my blast cabinet and that was taking forever so I used some aircraft stripper to get the bulk of it off and soften it up, then back to the blast cabinet I went and it went much easier. I prepped almost every part with aluminum oxide in the blast cabinet then a quick wipe down with some acetone and my results are very good. I must tell you that I'm also using a semi pro gun, (gema) not your run of the mill Eastwood. The only parts I did not blast were my woodcraft rear sets and they came out amazing as well. They were just reg machine aluminum.
As for my holes and threaded parts I use powder coating silicone plugs and caps, I also use the high temp fiber tape good to like 420* or 450* something like that.
Good luck with your build.
I had my frame, swing arm, and lots of stuff powder coated. I suggest just leaving it all for the coater to do. Write him some notes for the holes to plug. On my job they plugged all the holes with tapered heat resistant plugs and blasted it. The blasted surface although a bit coarse looking while bare is a good base for proper adhesion. Mine came out great. Nice and smooth. Click my name and check out my pics.
I did clean out both with kerosene before and AFTER. Just dump some in and shake it around.
Good luck.
Nice bike nicholas900.
Thanks bro.
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