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Thread: LSL Headlight, Motoscope Mini, M-Lock

  1. #21
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    OK, it looks like the low fuel sensor is a thermistor installed in the fuel pump between the ground and the yellow/red fuel wire from the cluster. So the resistance of the thermistor is not high enough to prevent lighting of the LED. As I understand the Buell Instrument Cluster has an adjusted program which lights the low fuel light once resistance of the fuel thermistor is out of range.

    I'm not an electrician, any ideas how can I use it for the LED for low fuel level?


  2. #22
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    Talk to brock, he installed the motosign in his bike and he's good at wiring! He helped me out a lot! I'll pm you his mail!

    Don't forget to post the solution :)

    http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Foru...wiring-diagram

  3. #23
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    Thank you, I'll ask him. Brock sent me a picture with optional wiring for the Motosign, and I see he uses a 12V relay to make the LED workable for the neutral signal. Actually I'm not sure if it is a good desidion to use the relay because I switch to neutral gear pretty frequently, it means that the relay will switch frequently too, it will cause mechanical wear of the relay.



    Here is a discussion with the same problem http://www.customfighters.com/forums...t=60712&page=2 . The guy cut off the neutral wire from neutral switch to ECM, but in this case the motorcycle will start only with squeezed clutch lever. And I don't know if it will affect on ECM somehow else.


  4. #24
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    I bought the motoscope pro and decided to get a breakout box to control all the signals for me. I bought the Breakout Box A and in the manual for the motoscope pro there is a wiring diagram for it. It seems as if the wires have some sort of continuous measurement?

    Customfighters.com is a really good forum and I had a lot of help from Sideshow Bob!

  5. #25
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    Here is the progress.

    I bought a couple of relay in the local AutoZone shop. I hope it will work for the Motosign LEDs.



    I decided to relocate all stuff in the air box in this place



    I am going to use the same screws to mound the bracket for the parts. So I bought a 2" x 2" aluminum angle 1/16" thickness in the local HomeDepot



    Cut a piece with necessary length



    Take a cardboard and create a template





    Transfer the template on the piece of aluminum angle and cut it









    Cut an aluminum plate for the horn from the same material and drill holes for all stuff you are going to relocate





    Assemble it



    Install the flasher relay, the relays and the horn







    Install all stuff in the place and close the air box











    Done!

  6. #26
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    OK, the problem with the lights has been solved! Just use three 12V automotive relays for the "neural", for the "engine check" and for the "low fuel" lights. The "turn signals" and the "oil check" lights work fine if you connect them according the Motosign manual. The high beam light will not be presented on the Motosign.

    My testing stand, the lights work good



    Here are the wiring diagrams to connect those lights from the Motosign







    I can't check if the "low fuel" light works, but I hope it will work, all another lights works fine.

    I think I will not use the relay for the "Engine Check" signal, I will connect it without the relay as is, the engine check light has pretty big difference between dim and bright state, so you can see it pretty clear.

  7. #27
    Senior Member nicholas900's Avatar
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  8. #28
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    Tonight I've assembled a couple plugs I'm going to connect with the Motoscope and the relocated components. I use these plugs .




  9. #29
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    Tonight I've soldered the plug to the Motoscope and the Motosign.

    Cut the Motoscope and the Motosign wire harness to achieve necessary length



    Prepare the wires for soldering



    Integrate the Motoscope fuse in the wire harness



    Solder the plug to the Motoscope and the Motosign wire harness



    Finalize the wire harness with heat shrink tubing



    Here is the plug I use to connect the Motoscope configuration button


  10. #30
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    For the next step we need High Temperature Wire, Fleece Wire Harness and Heat Sleeve .





    According the message on the heat sleeve box it will give you more horse power!!! Like an extra bonus.

    Remove the airbox base



    Put the heat sleeve in the gap like on the picture below





    Align the front end of the sleeve



    Trim the sleeve to achieve necessary length



    Prepare 10 high temperature wires. Wire length should be slightly more than sleeve length. I would recommend you mark the ends of the wires by numbers.



    Use the Fleece Wire Harness to hold all wires together and preventing friction wear while vibrations





    Cover one end of the wire harness by a piece of tape and insert the harness in the sleeve





    Install the harnesses in the motorcycle









    Install the airbox base back. Done!



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