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Thread: LSL Headlight, Motoscope Mini, M-Lock

  1. #51
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    This is excellent.......but now I need to go back an revisit my install. Mine isn't as clean as yours.
    nice work.

  2. #52
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    5,416
    Your gas cap is upside down
    All this time and you're still a prick...

    I am not really a fan of that style light but it actually looks pretty good on the lightning. Nice job.

  3. #53
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    Dec 2011
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    Can't imagine how much this all must of took. Respect. I'm trying to wire in the m lock and struggling. I've pretty much done what all you've done here as far as the m lock goes. The picture shows which wire i cut and split into two to send to the relay. The 20 amp fuse in yellow signify's which one that is. When i pass the key fob over the m lock, i'll hear the fuel pump come on for 1-2 seconds. When i try to make another pass it whines for a little longer, maybe 2-3 seconds. The ignition switch is cut off and clustered together. The black wire from the m lock goes to the relay, with a jumper going to the ground of the battery. The red wire from the m lock has the inline 1 amp fuse, that goes to the positive terminal of the battery. Was there any wires aside from the one in the fuse panel i was supposed to remove or cut? I've seen reference to the red wire with grey strip. Anything on that?

    IMG_4577.jpg
    Last edited by Global Eyes; 02-21-2016 at 05:43 AM.

  4. #54
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    Hello Global Eyes. Please let us know the motorcycle make and year. My motorcycle is 2009 Buell XB12Scg, and if yours motorcycle is different they can have slightly different wiring. It looks like my fuse box has a blue 15 amp fuse in that corner, not yellow 20 amp.

    So you need take a look close to the fuse box sticker with fuse scheme and locate the "KEY SWITCH" fuse. Mine "KEY SWITCH" fuse is 15 amp. Here is mine fuse box cover with sticker



    Then you need to find and download service manual for you particular motorcycle year and check the Main Harness wiring diagram. According the wiring diagram make sure that the ignition key switch connected with the "Key Switch" fuse and nothing else goes through the key switch from the battery. On my motorcycle it is the red wire from the Fuse box under the 15 amp KEY SWITCH fuse.



    Than you need to split the wire from the KEY SWITCH fuse and connect the M-Lock relay. The idea is than the M-Lock relay will shorten the wire from the the 15 amp KEY SWITCH fuse you split and will work as switch lock.

    If you open the fuse box cover you will see the fuses. Locate the KEY SWITCH fuse according the fuse box cover sticker. Pull the fuse box clips and raise the fuse box base to have access to the fuse box wires under the base. You will need to split the wire before OR after (does not matter before or after) the KEY SWITCH fuse. My KEY SWITCH fuse located at the very corned. To make make sure that you catch the right wire just rock it and see if the KEY SWITCH fuse shakes too.



    Raise the fuse box base



    My KEY SWITCH fuse wire is here in the very left bottom corner under the fuse box base under the KEY SWITCH fuse



    Split this wire



    Solder the extension wires to have better access.



    The reason to install the M-Lock is to eliminate the key switch unit under the cluster to have more space for the new headlight. If you had not cut off the key switch yet it is not necessary if you want to test the M-Lock, but once the M-Lock installed and work properly you will need to cut off the switch lock unit under the cluster and shorten the wires switch lock.



    You have to connect the M-Lock relay and M-Lock key sensor according the M-Lock wiring diagram, but the M-Lock relay should be connected in that KEY SWITCH fuse wire.

    Last edited by TPEHAK; 02-21-2016 at 06:46 PM.

  5. #55
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    Dec 2011
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    Running the same bike as yours, my bad.

    So just sniping one side of the fuse (15amp) and joining the two wires? What about the other side of that same fuse? It stays? Aside from that, i've done everything the same. Tied off the bundle up front.

    IMG_4578.jpg

    IMG_4579.jpg

    IMG_4580.jpg
    Last edited by Global Eyes; 02-21-2016 at 06:52 PM.

  6. #56
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    Yes, correct, you've done it right, other side of the fuse stays as is, don't split other side.

    Now make sure you connected the terminals 87 and 30 of the M-Lock relay to the split.
    Last edited by TPEHAK; 02-21-2016 at 07:02 PM.

  7. #57
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    Dec 2011
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    Weird. Have it set up the same way, and it'll turn on the fuel pump for a second then shut off.

  8. #58
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    Once you've checked all connections, make sure the engine switch is off



    Then turn the ignition key switch on. And now the M-Lock should work properly.

    Have you cut off the ignition key unit and shorten the wires under the ignition key? If you have not cut the ignition key unit it should not affect the pump. So the only thing can affect the pump is the engine switch is ON. Is the engine switch in OFF position?
    Last edited by TPEHAK; 02-21-2016 at 07:19 PM.

  9. #59
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    Can you post a video please?

    Are you sure this is fuel pump and not the exhaust valve actuator?

    Because all you've done is just literally installed the switch in the wire line and nothing else, so the motorcycle should work the same way as with no M-lock.

    Make sure the battery is fully charged.

    If you already cut the ignition key plug off please make sure that you've done it the same way like I described here

    http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthr...l=1#post532139
    Last edited by TPEHAK; 02-21-2016 at 07:45 PM.

  10. #60
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    Dec 2011
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    Thanks for all the help TPEHAK. Came down the the sequence i was using to program the key. For whatever reason i thought i had to pass the master over the m lock, then learn the additional keys, then close out the process with the the master. The last part wasn't needed..



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