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Thread: NRHS Stage 2 for 07 XB12R

  1. #1
    So I am stuck in making a decision on weather or not I want to just do the big bore kit and call it good or spend the extra 1100 and go to the full on stage 2 kit that NRHS offers.

    I dont race the bike but plan on doing some track days. I would like to have more power however my concern is spending an extra $1000+ and only netting a marginal increase hp numbers....

    Has anyone here gone this route? Impressions? Worth the money?

    My bike currently has 22k miles and is pretty tired which is why I am wanting to freshen her up. A lot of blow by and when shes hot you can hear the pistons rattling a bit lol.

    Any helpful info is greatly appreciated.

    Cj

  2. #2
    Senior Member squidbuellie's Avatar
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    Just replace the Pistons and rings maybe even a 3 angle valve job, slap it back together and call it good......
    Then use the extra money and buy a 750 track bike....

  3. #3
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    In the middle of a similar build. I chose to keep the stock bore and spend my money else where. Full port, valve job, larger valves, XB9 pistons, chamber cut, full exhaust system from Dean Adams, and possibly cams. All total I'm gonna be in it around $1400(without cams). I work at a machine shop so I'm saving money there but I'll get a build thread going so you can see what all I've done.

  4. #4
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    I have a 2009 XB12R with 20k. I am doing the equivalent of a stage 3 for my bike with Hammer Performance as we speak. Just sent off my heads, intake, and cams, yesterday. I am looking for 100 ft/lbs torque across a wide power band for street use.

    Look at the total package. Just doing headwork, cams, big bore, etc will not let you maximize gains unless you look at everything as a whole. Do the heads flow what the engine requires, does the intake and exhaust move the air, does your tuning compensate for the changes you made, what about fuel requirements, etc.

    Do each one of these components match?
    1. Case/bore sizes, (stock, 1250 bolt on kit, 88, etc)
    2. Head work / valves
    3. Cams
    4. Fueling (ie higher psi fuel pressure regulator, or higher lbs/hr injectors)
    5. Exhaust (headers & muffler)
    6. Intake (filter, cover, and tb/intake)
    7. Tuning

    Just bolting on bigger jugs will probably not yield you satisfactory results if the heads (squish, flow, compression, etc) don't match. Heads won't do you much good if the intake or exhaust can't handle the flow. Intake/exhaust won't do much good if you are maxing out the injectors (hint I maxed out mine with bolt-ons). Etc. One component can be a limiting factor (both if it is stock or if overdone compared to other mods).

    Here is my build.
    1. Open up the airbox, install K&N filter
    2. Ceramic coat headers, high flow/low restriction muffler
    3. Install Delphi FP10153 fuel pressure regulator, new filter and strainer
    4. 1250 bolt on big bore kit
    5. Head work
    6. Cams
    7. Port tb/intake
    8. Wideband tune when I get it back together

    Unfortunately I have two feet of snow in my backyard so it will be a while before I can give you feedback. But it is a package Aaron, from Hammer Performance, and I worked together on and I am expecting great results. From stock to this build I have $2,500 invested. $2k for the build from Hammer, muffler I build myself, and the rest for the wideband, K&N air filter, ceramic coat, etc.

    Brett




    .

  5. #5
    Brett,

    Not sure what your getting at but I was only asking for results from anyone that has done a similar build. Ive built engines for years and know what factors need to be considered. I am just having a hard time justifying the cost only to gain 15hp....

    My question to you however is why do you suggest the FPR change? Does it net higher pressure since you maxxed your injectors with bolt ons as you stated? (how much?)

    Thanks.

  6. #6
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    Yes I am swapping out the fpr since I am maxing out the stock injectors right now at around 4k peak and again at 6-7k. Increase fuel psi to allow more volume for the same injectors. Once it comes in the mail I am going to bench test both. If you wanted to stay cheap I would do the big bore kit with at least some light head work for more flow. (along with fresh valve stem seals) I can't offer any feedback on just a 1450 kit with everything else stock. Sorry.

    Have you done all the bolt ons already? K&N, muffler, tuning, etc and still want more power?

    I think for me I did all the bolt ons. Got a wideband and tuned it but wanted more. Went to XB9 gears and loved the acceleration but hated low top speed. So now I am into my build to get that acceleration but go back to XB12 gears to keep the top end.

    Is your blowby from valve stem seals? You may be into your heads regardless. At 20k my bores still have crosshatch and look brand new. Beginning to wonder if it was rebuilt by previous owner or what!

  7. #7
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    Lawdog my motor is at 28k and still has the cross hatch as well. Rings weren't terrible either

  8. #8
    I have the k&n, Race ECM and Drummer exhaust.

    Blow-by is the cylinder pressures pushing past the rings into the crankcase this pushes excessive oil vapors into the airbox or catch can if one is installed. When this is excessive you'll get fuel in the oil as well which is bad as it dilutes the oil and can cause bearing damage.

    With the amount of piston slap I am hearing when its hot I have rings stuck or they are just wore out.

  9. #9
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    Stock fuel pressure regulator puts out 48 psi. Replaced for 58 psi one. Also sent out my injectors to be cleaned.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    On my 2007 xb12r I have a 1250kit, 540cams, zippers lifters, beehive valve springs to support stage 2 head work from NRHS, the proper pushrods for the build, open airbox, Buell race ECM and a jardine pipe.
    I performed this rebuild because my crank crapped out. So I also had the crank balanced and lightened. In an attempt to maximize the compression of the new build I also set my squish right at 30thousandths of an inch.
    My limiting factor right now is my tuning. I'm not a pro with it so it's slow going.
    However, from the start I knew this would be my limiting factor.
    The biggest seat of the pants difference I feel is the crank!
    All the other stuff gets lost in the wash of money that I thought would make a difference.
    If you HAVE to split your cases, get that crank balanced and lightened. If you don't, freshen the pistons up with new rings and a tighter squish and spend the money you save on an exhaust with dual O2 sensors and some dyno time.
    Tuning will pay greater dividends rather than displacement on our bikes.
    Also, if I had to do it all again Id follow the above advice of squidbillie and spend the minimum to bring my bike back to stock and use what I saved for a rice rocket track bike.
    That's my advice from my experience with a 1250kit.
    That's what you asked for.... Right?



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