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Thread: DIY Steel Braided Oil Lines

  1. #1
    Hello, The other day I laid my bike down and it cracked the lower oil line . After doing some research there are a few people that have replaced there OEM lines with still braided lines. The closes thing I could find to a write up on this mod was part numbers so I thought I would add my 2 cents to this site and do a write up. On a scale of difficulty from 1-5 (5 being most difficult) I would rate this mod at a 2; total time 1 hour; total parts cost $103.

    I ordered all the parts from Jegs and they also have black fittings and black hose if you want to go that route.
    4x Flare Reducer, -6AN to -8AN, 555-100212
    3x 90° Max Flow Swivel Hose End, -8AN, 555-100022
    1x 45° Max Flow Swivel Hose End, -8AN, 555-100012
    1x Pro-Flo 200 Series Stainless Steel Braided Hose, -08AN, 555-100920
    [img]null[/img]

    Remove the OEM lines.

    Remove OEM oil line fittings.
    Notice - oil line fittings are not torqued down super tight.

    Remove OEM o-ring from removed fittings

    Place OEM o-ring only -6 to -8 reducer fitting.


    Wrap fitting with teflon tape to be safe for leaks.


    Install reducer fittings.
    Notice - Stator cover has been unbolted from engine. this is not necessary.
    - DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN FITTINGS.


    Cut two peaces of hose at 2.75" and 6".
    Notice - I am using a cut off wheel, I think this is the best tool the cut the braided line.
    - Wrap hose with electrical tap before cutting. This will help the hose from fraying (do not remove electrical tape)


    Assemble hoses by pushing the red hose nut onto the hose, spray some WD-40 onto the blue fitting threads and into the hose, thread blue fitting onto red hose nut. Once assembled be sure to spray the inside of the hose with brake cleaner.
    Note : The 6" hose uses one 45degree fitting on one end and a 90degree fitting on the other. The 2.75" used 2 90 degree fittings



    Install hoses onto cooler and engine.



  2. #2
    Senior Member neilrl79's Avatar
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    Looks good!

  3. #3
    Senior Member thrstrmech's Avatar
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    nicely done, look great

  4. #4
    Senior Member mrlogix's Avatar
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    nice job :D

  5. #5
    Thanks guys. At first I kinda didn't like it because I thought it was too blingie but after watching my friend ride my cr I think it looks cool because it catches your eye and makes you curious what it is. Kinda like hearing the exhaust of your bike as someone rides it, the bike sounds so much better hearing it pass by rather than riding the bike.

    If anyone wants to do this mod I have extra steel braided hose I'll sell them for cheap.

  6. #6
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    Sending pm been wanting to do this for awhile

  7. #7
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    Looks awesome you hot rodder you.

  8. #8
    Potential stupid question:
    So this will not starve the oil cooler in any way? It doesn't look like it since the reducer is in the engine/cooler and going into larger hoses. Correct? So the hoses actually are large that the oil ports both in the engine and oil cooler.
    I've wanted to do this also but I just want to make sure no oil starvation or future overheating can be caused by this.

  9. #9
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    From what Ive seen most people drill the -6 side full flow of the -8 on the reducer fitting.
    Look about halfway down this article
    http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...31/553281.html

  10. #10
    Senior Member konarider94's Avatar
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    Never use teflon tape on o-rings. O-ring gland dimensions are very precise. They need to be compressed a certain amount and there needs to be excess room in the gland for when they deform. I design o-ring glands on a daily basis. It may work but that is not a recommended practice, and may even result in a premature failure.

    Teflon tape should be reserved for tapered threads. I know you were just trying to be extra safe, but in this instance it may have a negative affect. Other than that it looks like a great little mod.

    If you would like a reference on o-ring design see parker catalog ORD5700A
    https://www.parker.com/literature/OR...g_Handbook.pdf



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