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Thread: Thought I wouldn't make it...

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    AmishLand, PA.
    not looking forward to the petrol bath.
    then do this: remove air box cover and look at 1 o'clock position on frame/tank. that is vent. delicately pinch shut the rubber vent hose which sources from vent and over top and left side of air box lid. now remove drain plug at pump and start to drain. as drainage slows to a trickle gently relieve your applied pressure to the vent hose till flow increases. use the vent hose as a primitive method to control the fuel flow from the drain plug.

  2. #12
    Physics, brilliant! Thanks for that

  3. #13
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Crawling up your skirt
    You could use a brass MPT(?) to barb fitting that fits into the drain plug hole, put the hose in a gas jug and the only leakage you'll have is swapping the fitting out.

    Or easier…
    You can form tin foil into a funnel like shape around the swing arm stuff to direct the gas into a drain pan. A clean drain pan will let you re-use the gas

  4. #14
    The brass fitting might be a go, I tried the foil funnel once and that was an absolute mess. I'm sure I did it wrong.

    A few more observations - when the bike is cool, runs great - once hot the RPMs sit at 3000. I can start rolling in 2nd gear with no throttle applied. The power is back, absolutely no problems on the interstate, but once I hit traffic or come into town it's annoying. To keep the RPMs down at stop lights I would hold the front break and let the clutch about half-way out to put a load on the engine and bring the RPMs down to 1000.

    Is there a way to tell that it's definitely the pump before I make a mess and drop 350+ bucks on a new pump?

  5. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Royse City Tx
    Yes, Fuel pressure gauge. I do not own one but know someone who knows something, and owns an FPG. Intermittent electrical problems though can sometimes read good then bad, good then bad......If it is electrical, not mechanical I would investigate if it could be rewired somehow? Make that $350 pump work longer! or at least try is what I would do. I have been called frugal before......

  6. #16
    Alright, I may see if I have some buddies here who have a gauge I can borrow.

    I did some more digging and similar problems in cars and other bikes suggest an intake leak. The thought is that there's a small gap that expands when the metal heats up. So tonight I'm going to get the bike warm and start testing for intake leaks. If that comes back negative, I'll try to get a FPG and learn how to use it (HA!).

    All this is new to me, but it should give me a good project to work on.

  7. #17
    I pulled the airbox off to see if I had left anything loose when I put in the extra grounding wire. The air sensor felt a little loose, like I hadn't plugged it in all the way. Put all back together and warmed it up, took a ride for about 20 minutes and couldn't duplicate the problem the it stills feels a little weak accelerating from a stop in first gear. I tested for an intake leak and didn't get any kind of response.

    So either the possible lack of air sensor was messing it up, but only when it warmed up (does that make sense?) or the the pump is still the culprit but the problem is manifesting differently now?

    Or it's gremlins.

  8. #18
    Also, I've looked up some how-tos on using a fuel pressure gauge, but all the videos are on cars. Where would you tap into the Buell to test the fuel pressure?

  9. #19
    Nevermind, found it in the manual. :p

  10. #20
    I was hoping the problem was magically cured, but not so. Starts fine (hard, but that's an old problem), pops and backfires at low speed when I first start riding, even if I let it warm up 5-10 minutes. Once the engine gets warmed, the idle jumps to 3000-3300 and hangs out there. Doesn't bog down in first, just goes - it's actually made stop-n-go traffic easier to manage, HA! If I shut it down and restart while the engine is still hot, spikes back up to 3k. If I let the back cool, comes back down to 1k.

    Still trying to get my hands on a FPG. Leak test was nil. A friend of mine suggested throttle linkage. I wiggled cables and didn't get any response, then pulled off the airbox cover to see if the intake flap was stuck open and it wasn't. I missed mriulvr's post about the popped breather hose from the top of the cylinder so I'll check that too.

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