Reply With QuoteInstall a heated o2 sensor.
I will check all that stuff when I get a chance. I have gone on a couple rides to allow the AFV to do its thing, but i haven't checked it since. I do get decel popping, but it's not harsh popping, more like Harley popping, chuffs and blub blub sounds.
Install a heated o2 sensor.
Okay, I had the chance last night to reprogram some stuff and I think I came up with a workable option that keeps the closed loop idle.
Basically, I redid the Idle Air Control table so that the bike doesn't drop to the lowest idle level until after it has warmed up more completely. So rather than dropping to 1000 rpm after it reaches 60C or whatever temperature it was set to, it doesn't drop to 1000 rpm until it is almost fully warmed up. So it still idles like a stock Buell until it's totally warmed up and those extra rpm allow the engine to run more smoothly until everything is totally warmed up and running properly.
Is there a tutorial somewhere on how to install a heated O2 sensor?
Forgot to mention something:
Even though I added a little fuel at idle, when running warm in closed loop mode, the EGO Correction consistently reads ~110% at idle. Not sure why this is, adding fuel doesn't change it, and it runs fine.
You have to remember that your o2 sensor is a one wire non heated one. It takes a while for that sensor to heat up and start to create voltage.
If you install a heated sensor it will heat up faster and go into closed loop faster. I don't remember the correct way to wire it, but it was easily searched on Google.
Here a video of how fast my bike goes into closed loop.
Buell heated o2 sensor installed: https://youtu.be/klVhgJceUNE
Dualsport rep point for you cool video on 02.sent you a pm
You're welcome. Just remember, the time it takes for your o2 sensor when cold to go into closed loop has nothing to do with your tune....to a extent. Yeah of course it needs to warm up so upping your idle etc will help the o2 warn up faster but a heated o2 helps idle and the lean cough a lot.
So I am confused. You mention it doesn't idle well when first started and cold. But then you mention you think the problem is your closed loop idle. Closed loop doesn't start until the bike is warmed up. How does it idle cold start vs warm?
Closed loop idle works fine. Bike uses the 02 sensor to keep the AFR at 14.7 for best emissions. Some will turn it off, aka me, to run the bike at a lower AFR (ie richer) to lower the motor temp and make the idle a bit crisper or smoother. So it just idles in open loop.
Cold start the bike idles in open loop. Applies correction for temp, battery voltage, etc. So if your battery voltage, base fuel map, base timing map, AFV, timing, or temp correction is off then you will have poor cold idle. This is just ECM related assuming mechanicals are fine, ie good spark, fuel.
EGO correction won't change at idle. You need to be in closed loop learn (ie cruising down the road) to get that adjustment. Adding or pulling fuel manually will just make the bike compensate (in closed loop) using the O2 to maintain 14.7 AFR. Say you add fuel in the maps at idle. In closed loop the bike will just pull that fuel back out to maintain 14.7 AFR.
DualSportDad, thanks for the info. Though the wiring for a heated sensor is pretty straightforward, I am unable to find any pages spelling out how to do it on a Buell, where to find the needed wires. However, I'm sure I could figure it out with the shop manual. But it would be really nice to see an example.
Did you mean AFV instead of EGO Correction?Originally Posted by lawdog
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