STILL DOESNT RUN! XB9 PUZZLE

[UMDterp13]

Bike runs without BAS sensor. At least mine do

[July4]

Situation changed!
I have a new (Used) ECM which now lights the "check engine" for about 5 seconds when the key is turned on (like it should). The original ECM, and another borrowed ECM did not do this. I also now have 5V at all the sensors, (red/w wire). With the original ECM, voltage was low, 2.7V or so. The "new" ECM also allows me to run codes unlike the original, (probably fried the original unit with the short in the picture). So when I pull the codes I get 44, which means BAS issue. The red wire supplies 5V to the BAS (and all other sensors now), the ground wire checks out good to ground with ohm meter and passes all wiggle tests. The light green wire also shows good resistance with the ohm meter with no shorting to ground including wiggling the harness during the test. This wire goes directly to the black? connector (from memory) and seems fine. I'm guessing this is the wire that provides BAS feedback to the ECM, so I was particularly thorough checking it since this, (to me) it was likely giving a false signal to the ECM that the bike was on it's side. If I don't find the answer soon it WILL be on it's side with me jumping up and down on it!!

So, I'm stumped. I've made progress in that the ECM seems to actually work, but I'm concerned that I may not have found the thing that killed the original ECM. I've stripped back the wires to the black ECM connector again to double check I have not missed any other chafed wires; not that I'm seeing a problem in my testing.

I know this does not answer what you wanted me to test, but the new ECM is getting different readings from the post you were responding to. I can try to check when I get home, but I'm pretty sure the grey wire is a full 12 V now with the new ECM. The fuel pump still does not run when key is switched on. (No fuel in tank yet).

[thrstrmech]

I'll do some reading after work, something isn't getting a signal through...bad BAS and ignition switch or both

[July4]

Yea, weird. If it can run without the BAS, then the fuel pump should run when the key comes on right? But it does not. If the ignition sw. is messed up I wouldn't get power to the relays etc. (I did check the Ig sw. and did wiggle test as well). Remember, with the new ECM I'm getting mostly normal readings, 5V on the sensor wire etc. but no voltage to the fuel pump. More specifically, the brown/y wire is not being grounded by the ecm. I believe the gray wire is still providing 12V. I will double check that when I get home.

I think the ecm is getting some signal that is making it react as though the bike is tipped over or some similar situation where it cuts ignition and fuel. The neutral light works fine, and that is the only other legit reason for the ECM to cut power. i.e. kick stand down, in gear and clutch out. But I do not see a switch for the side stand? Doesn't a 2005 have one? Could the PO have clipped the wire, removed the switch and just crossed the wire? If my year doesn't have such a wire/switch I don't want to go looking for it, but could that be the answer? a botched splice job? Again grasping for straws here. I just want to ride!

[UMDterp13]

Have you tried the CPS? Inside the cam cover cup?
I have a good one if you haven't tried it $60+ $5 shipping

[July4]

I haven't tried changing that but my issue is the fuel pump not running. None of the sensors seem to be drawing the circuit down like they would if one was bad so I'm guessing that wouldn't be the problem. But, good to know where I can get one should the need arise. Thanks.

[July4]

Holy **** it's been a while! Took it to Harley of Glendale who confirmed the ECM was the culprit. Ordered a new one and paid an absurd $45 to get it overnighted. (Do they really need to make a big profit on that!!) Got a call late Saturday to pick it up. I had about 30 min. until wife was supposed to be home and we were going somewhere to listen to music. So of course I don't want to wait till Tuesday and pick it up, (rememberthe $45). My kid takes me down there, 15 min, I tell the guy to have it ready and of course he doesn't. Takes his boss like 5 minutes to put my visa in and take my money. Slow computer, slow typing, (Really, 2 fingers in 2015!) Then they have to go bring my bike around, another 5 ****ing minutes. It won't idle and dies 3 X then won't start because my new battery that I had made sure was charge prior to them taking it was dead. GRR. Went home without it and got chewed by the wife for being late.

Round 2:
Wife and I are again going to hollywood bowl and they call at the end of the day to say it is ready and that they have test driven it several miles and it is ready. Put on leathers again, beg wife to drop me there and I will meet her in the shuttle parking lot. They start the bike and it dies, 3 X. The service writer was really apologetic and promises he will have it fixed at no charge. I get a call after a couple of days saying it is the idle screw assy. WHF? really? they say they put it on the computer started it and watched the idle die. Ok. ordered parts and then after installing them they tell me that the real problem is that it doesn't have enough fuel pressure. Now that I agree with. They tell me the fuel pressure regulator assy was separated from the pump when they disassembled it. Ok so it's a ****ty design that has 3 o rings that are supposed to seal it, but they can't if it separates. Fine. They want me to order a new $$380 pump assy. I go down there again and convince them to order a new style regulator and hoses. They delay ordering from that thursday until the following Monday.

I get a call saying the hoses are too long and they will have to go to an auto parts store to get pre-formed hoses. Again, WTF. I gotta see this. So I drive down there and the service writer is off and they can't/won't find the technician. They insist it just aint going to work with these parts and I must buy a new pump assy. I'd like to see the parts while I'm here. They argue that wont do any good, the Tech has been there for 30 years. Do I know better? I finally see the parts and sure enough the regulator housing they got will only fit on a different, later model pump, They didn't even get the regulator itself, just a new housing. The guy I'm talking to settles down a bit and starts being nice again after I patiently explain that we just need a new pump which is probably a common automotive pump just like the original is a Walbro from a lowly v6 mustang. About $40 bucks at Autozone.

So does anyone know what the new version of this pump says on it or what vehicle it is from? That is the $380 question. HELLLP!!

[thrstrmech]

Walbro 521....very common pump unit, check out the parts cross reference thread...all the alternate part numbers are listed in the thread. bought the AC Delco one from ebay for 22 bucks, new in the box. they are just playing you at the dealership...they took the fuel pump out without telling you what was going on? buy parts left and right? those f#$@tards don't know what they are doing, even with a 30 yr tech.

[July4]

I just realized when I was there I was trying to put the regulator over the pump which is wrong. The pump connects to the hose which goes to the "top" of the regulator and the large cavity at the other end of the regulator goes over the filter. My question is what fills the gap? a piece of fuel line?

[Chicknstripn]

I don't know the answer to the fuel pump question but I do believe you need to call corporate HD and pitch a fit! What you're going through is ridiculous!